Loire Valley Wines… Let Me Count the Ways
Date: Sat, Aug 16, 2008 Wine Tasting
Diversity. Character. Expression.
Sounds like it could be a commercial slogan for just about any high market product, no? Add food friendliness to the list and you have four of the many reasons that I love Loire Valley wines. Those factors are all captured in a delicious wine from the Touraine that I enjoyed with dinner this week. It may be my favorite rosé of the year (at least so far).
Touraine Pineau d’Aunis Rosé, Clos Roche Blanche 2007
$15. 12% alcohol. Neocork. Importer: Louis/Dressner, New York, NY.
Diversity? Where else are Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Gamay and Côt, Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc grown right alongside local oddities like Pineau d’Aunis and Menu Pineau? Character? This is seriously distinctive wine that couldn’t come from anyplace else. Expression? The varietal character of Pineau d’Aunis shows through, even in a rosé, where grape variety can often be innocuous. Loire terroir is also expressed; even with the assertive personality of Pineau d’Aunis, there’s still an aspect of delicacy at play, largely thanks to light, refreshing acidity. Food friendliness? I’d be happy to drink a glass of this on its own but, for many, this might demand food. I enjoyed it with a very simple dinner – turkey burgers and a salad – but I could envision this pairing well with anything from poultry to sausages to grilled seafood.
There’s a remarkable match between the wine’s color and one of its dominant flavor elements: watermelon rind. Think of the pale pink watermelon pith left just above the pale green/white of the rind itself. Add to that a generous dash of cracked black pepper and slightly raspy texture and you’ve got a good sense of the wine. It’s rustic and a little awkward but extremely charming, all the same. Air contact and the concomitant slow rise in temperature bring out aromas of fallen leaves and potpourri. If forced to draw a parallel, I’d think of it as a cross between Cabernet Franc and Syrah, though what it really reminds me of is the Fer Servadou, aka Mansois, native to Marcillac in Southwest France. At $15, this is also a welcome example of the fact that many Loire wines continue to provide not just great character but also great value.
Notes from a Sunday
Date: Thu, Aug 14, 2008 Wine Tasting
Just a few notes today, from a casual get together with the usual suspects. In this edition, we started off with a couple of beauties from 2005 in the Loire before moving on to a Bourgogne Passetoutgarin, which I already wrote up under separate cover earlier this week. With dinner, an older Bordeaux seemed in order. Finally, my buddy Bill begrudgingly admitted to a Syrah epiphany.
Jasnières “Les Rosiers,” Domaine de Bellivière (Eric Nicolas) 2005
“Les Rosiers” is Eric Nicolas’ young vine cuvée of Jasnières, 100% Chenin Blanc fermented and aged primarily in barrels of 1-3 years with a small percentage of new oak. Though usually sec-tendre in style, this seems closer to demi-sec richness, no doubt due to the concentration provided by the 2005 vintage. It also happens to be showing as well if not better than any whites I’ve had from Bellivière in the past. Its richness is well bridled, thanks to the good acidity bound up in the wine’s creamy texture. There’s an unmistakable essence of pear nectar right up front, followed by classic notes of clover flowers and honey-glazed minerals. After aeration, some botrytis driven and vegetal funk sneaks through on the mid-palate but there’s still excellent upper and rear palate feel. Pears galore on the finish. $25. 13.5% alcohol. Cork. Importer: Louis/Dressner, New York, NY.
Savennières “Cuvée Spéciale,” Château d’Epiré 2005
The “Cuvée Spéciale” from Château d’Epiré represents a selection of the best fruit from the property, mostly from a plot located adjacent to Nicolas Joly’s “Coullée de Serrant.” The version handled by d’Epiré’s US importer, Kermit Lynch, differs from that sold in France, as Kermit gives strict instruction that the wine be bottled without filtration. As opposed to the Jasnières above, this is a bone-dry expression of Chenin. Vintage derived concentration plays a role here as well, resulting in a slightly aggressive frontal attack, the result of intense physiological extract and slightly high alcohol. The wine bristles with mineral density. Flavors of gooseberry and white grapes are followed by dried floral and herbal elements, subtle on the nose, magnified on the palate. After a couple hours of airtime, a scent of spearmint emerges, something I think of as a signature element of dry Savennières. Very good wine that could definitely benefit from cellaring to allow integration and development. $23. 14% alcohol. Cork. Importer: Kermit Lynch, Berkeley, CA.
Haut-Médoc, Château Guittot-Fellonneau 1997
Guy Constantin produces real, old-fashioned Bordeaux from a whopping four hectares of property on the outskirts of the town of Macau. His estate is just a stone throw – on the wrong side of the road, essentially – from falling within the borders of Margaux. Lucky for us, as the wines could still be had for under $20 only a few years ago; unlucky for him as a more privileged address might have made him a slightly wealthier man by now. 1997 was universally panned by the big critics – proof “embottled” that points don’t mean a thing, as I’ve enjoyed several delicious ‘97s from a number of small-to-medium Châteaux over the last year or two. This has a long way to go but is starting to show some lovely bottle development. The nose is loaded with graphite/lead pencil aromas along with black and red currant fruit, a touch of bay leaf and really savory earthiness. Medium-bodied, taut and well delineated, it’s a damn good example of Bordeaux that’s not only inexpensive but can also be enjoyed with more than just steak and lamb. In this case, we paired it with braised chicken breasts and mushrooms, a dish Bill adapted from a recipe in Pierre Franey’s “Cuisine Rapide.”
Saint-Joseph Rouge, Domaine Georges Vernay 2006
Bill is a self-avowed Syrah hater. He loves red wine, mind you, as long as it’s from Burgundy, the Loire, Beaujolais or Piedmont. He’s even been know to drink Grenache based wines from time to time. But Syrah? Nope. I’ve been out to prove him misguided for a while now and the opportunity finally presented itself a few weeks back when I hosted one of these Sunday gigs at my place; most are at his. I’d given strict instructions that he not bring anything. Translation: he was at my mercy. I poured a bottle half-blind, meaning I knew what it was but the rest of my guests had no idea. It was a bit unfair, I suppose, not just because of the trap but also because it was an older bottle. A damn good one, at that, the 1997 Cornas “Vieilles Vignes” from Alain Voge, a really top-notch if somewhat underappreciated producer.
Bill liked it. After I told him what it was, he still liked it. So much so that he went shopping a little while later and came home with an armful of another Northern Rhône Syrah, the Saint-Joseph Rouge from Domaine Georges Vernay. Bill liked this one as well. I did too. It’s a really fine example of young Saint-Joseph, redolent of dark red berries, cinnamon and black pepper, with a streak of black olive and bacon, a hint of beefiness and supple but really visceral texture. Medium-bodied, no discernible oak and a totally transparent winemaking style. Sandwiched between Christine Vernay’s basic VdP Syrah, which is only about $10 less, and her Côte-Rôtie, which run three-to-four times the price, this is a really solid value, suitable for drinking now or stashing away for the next ten years. $30. 13% alcohol. Cork. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA.
WBW 48 and MFWT 300: A Blast from My Past
Date: Wed, Aug 13, 2008 Wine Tasting
Well, it’s that time of the month again – Wine Blogging Wednesday time. Today marks the 48th installment of the venerable institution, making it the 4th anniversary of the event started way back in 2004 by Lenn Thompson of LennDevours. By way of celebration, Lenn is also hosting today’s edition. It’s a milestone of sorts for me as well – my 300th post. So, a special thank you goes out to Lenn, not only for hosting but also for his serendipitous good timing.
Mr. Thompson’s theme for the day is getting back to your roots. Your wine drinking roots, that is. In his words, “I just want you to pick one of the wines from the beginning of your journey, taste it again for the first time in a while, and tell us about it.”
I’ve decided to tell you about three different wines, representing three different phases of my formative wine years. In a rare example of MFWT restraint, though, I’m only going to revisit one. However, so as not to disappoint anyone, I promise to spice things up a bit in another fashion. It’s a long journey, so sit back and relax.
While wine has been an important part, parcel and passion of my adult years, it took a distant back seat, from my childhood all the way through young adulthood, to music. I wrote about music long before I ever dreamed of writing about wine. Though I’m nowhere near as actively involved in the music scene as I was at one time, music – like wine – remains a strong driving force in my life. So, without further ado, here’s an entry from McDuff’s Wine & Music Trail: the formative years.
Part One: Early History
It’s not that wine was never around my house or on the table when I was a kid. For my folks, though, wine was not a serious matter of interest. The bottles that did make it onto the table were generally the usual suspects of the 1970s: Mateus and Lancers, Black Tower and, only around the holidays, Andre Cold Duck. It’s the latter of the bunch, the purple, fizzy juice called Cold Duck, which stands out most clearly in memory. Whether there’s any truth to it I’ll never know but my parents were convinced that Cold Duck was my grandmother’s favorite tipple. So almost without fail, it made an appearance on the table at every Thanksgiving and Christmas meal throughout my childhood years. No offense to Andre, whoever he is, but I’m not about to plunk down any of my hard earned cash on a bottle of Cold Duck, even if it is for WBW. So, you’ll have to settle for a picture (courtesy of WineChef) and a taste of what I might have been listening to before sitting down to one of those holiday meals.
My first teensy taste ever might have coincided with something like this:
By the time I was allowed a real sip or two, it was probably more like this:
And during the heart of my skateboarding years of teen rebellion, it just might have been:
Cold Duck was there all the way.
Part Two: The Awakening
What was the first wine that really opened my eyes? I hate to tell you I can’t remember exactly what it was. I do remember, though, where and when I drank it, at a long defunct restaurant in Baltimore. I think the name was Auberge or Aubergine… it’s been a long time. I was in college and was also a pretty strict vegetarian at the time. Our waitress suggested a wine for our meal, a Mosel Riesling, most likely a Kabinett from the late 70’s or early 80’s. I remember that much, just not the producer or any more specific information. What I definitely remember is an incredibly refreshing, flavorful blast of apple and peach fruit, and the distinct minerality of the wine. It was also great with whatever was on my plate. I was sold. Not to the point of becoming an instant wine geek, mind you, but I was henceforth very interested in the possibilities. It would just be another few years before I really dove in and started to explore them.
Riesling remains, to this day, one of my true wine passions. Because I write about it here with some regularity, I opted not to pick one as the wine to taste for this episode. If that bums you out, there’s plenty to read here. At around the time of that eye-opening bottle, by the way, I was almost certainly into something like this:
The sound/video quality's not great but it was a fun show.
Part Three: The Trail
By the late 1980s, wine had become a much more regular exploration for me. It was during my first trip to the Napa Valley in the early 90s, though, that the big bug really bit. I was accompanied by the woman who would eventually become my wife. And I was hooked. California Cabernet (and Merlot, Zinfandel, Chardonnay, Riesling, etc.) would become my primary focus for the next few years. I was already exploring European wines at the time but the best wines we tasted on that trip took me in their grip.
We visited several wineries on that first journey, as well as taking in the sites of the valley. The winery that really stood out for me was V. Sattui. Their tasting room is a pretty little spot on Highway 29 between Rutherford and St. Helena, right in the heart of the valley. It’s still a fun place to stop for a picnic lunch and a glass of wine. We tasted everything they offered us that day, from Muscat and Gamay Rosé to estate bottled Cabs. I joined their wine club on the spot, my first and, to this day, only wine club. I’ve long since canceled my membership and long since consumed most of the wines. I also don’t drink California wines nearly as often as back then. However, there are still a few bottles of V. Sattui Cabernet Sauvignon, just a few, lingering in my cellar from the latter days of that monthly subscription. Lenn’s choice of topics has given me a perfect excuse to dispatch with one of them.
Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon “Suzanne’s Vineyard,” V. Sattui Winery 1995
I’m consistently amazed at how differently good California wines and good European wines evolve. At thirteen years from its vintage, this is still extremely solid in color, a dark ruby red just barely going pale around the edge of the glass. It’s also still surprisingly sturdy, with resolved but firm tannins and an edge of acidity that still merits a good grilled steak. 1995 sits right between the two benchmark vintages of ’94 and ’97 in Napa, a period when things started to change from the leaner, food friendly styles of the past into today’s prevalent big-point, fruit-bomb style. This bottle still shows a sweet fruited element that’s typical to wines from the period but it also possesses a real sense of Napa Valley terroir that’s all too hard to find in many of today’s wines.
The first thing I notice when I stuck my nose in the glass was a pure blast of eucalyptus, immediate and unmistakable. Following that minty nose were hints of thyme and cedar riding on a crest of medium-rich red currant fruit. The oak influence is still present but drying and well balanced by the wine’s other traits. After an hour or two of air, the alcohol – even at a modest, fairly old school 13% level – makes itself more known than I’d like. I’d hardly chalk it up as a classic of the ages, but it’s still a pretty solid wine, one that hasn’t lost touch with its roots. I’d be happy to drink it again.
Oh yeah, the tunes….
These guys were there for me through Parts 2 and 3, and they're still turning me on today.
Exploring Burgundy: Bourgogne Passetoutgrain
Date: Tue, Aug 12, 2008 Wine Tasting
In one sense, Bourgogne Passetoutgrain is one of the easiest to understand of Burgundy’s multitude of appellations. Just follow the typical blending recipe of around 1/3 Pinot Noir and 2/3 Gamay – the fruit can be grown anywhere in Burgundy – and you’ve got the basics covered.
Of course, there’s at least a little more to it than that. Passetoutgrain (sometimes written as Passe-Tout-Grains) is a regional appellation spanning over 1200 hectares of potential vineyard area from the Yonne Department in the north to the Mâconnais in the south. Unlike Bourgogne Rouge, which is nearly always varietal Pinot Noir, Bourgogne Passetoutgrain must always be a blended red wine. The AOC discipline requires at least 1/3 Pinot Noir and allows for up to but not more than 2/3 Gamay. Additionally, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris may be included up to a cumulative maximum of 15%. All varieties are typically co-fermented. The wines are generally designed for early, casual drinking.
As with the misleadingly apparent simplicity of understanding Bourgogne Rouge, there can actually be much more to Passetoutgrain than the above definitions suggest. Stylistic expressions of Passetoutgrain don’t tend to be as diverse as with Bourgogne Rouge. However, as with Bourgogne, a Passetoutgrain from a large négociant house may include fruit sourced from throughout all of Burgundy, truly a broadly regional expression. The wine from a small grower, on the other hand, may come solely from one village or even one vineyard. While I’d never hold up a Passetoutgrain as an exemplar of the typicity of, say, Gevrey or Chambolle, a PTG sourced purely from one of those villages is likely to have different character than one from the Mâcon or from one that represents a hodgepodge of sources. Add to that the available blending options, not to mention the question of quality, and there’s actually quite a range of possibilities. If such things matter to you – hence much of the conundrum with understanding Burgundy – the only real way to begin to know the wine is to get to know the producer.
Bourgogne Passetoutgrain “L’Exception,” Domaine Michel Lafarge 2004
Domaine Lafarge, a twelve-hectare property situated in Volnay, traces its history back to the early 19th Century. Frédéric Lafarge, working alongside his father Michel, converted the estate to completely biodynamic practices as of 2000. Lafarge’s “L’Exception” is a special cuvée, produced from very old vines, which has built a reputation for being more cellar-worthy than most other Passetoutgrains, including the estate’s regular bottling. This 2004 would seem to speak to that, as it’s still carrying plenty of vitality and should live at least a few more years before beginning its decline. It’s medium-bodied, lean and edgy in texture, with granitic minerality and a spicy, smoky personality. Clove, corned beef and pipe resin dominate the nose, while a stemmy, red berry character buzzes through on the palate. A classic Passetoutgrain sparring match between high-toned background notes and a rustic exterior. It’s also very food friendly. $25. 12.5% alcohol. Cork. Importer: Wine Cellars Ltd., Briarcliff, NY.
Vineyard image courtesy of Domaine Michel Lafarge.
Philly Food Bloggers Prepare to Invade Fairmount Park
Date: Mon, Aug 11, 2008 Wine Tasting
Thanks to the intrepid organizational efforts of Ms. Taylor High, aka Lady Mac & Cheese, this coming Sunday, August 17, will mark the fourth installment of the Philly Food Bloggers Meetup and Potluck. If you're involved in some way in food, wine or beverage blogging in the greater Philadelphia area, haven't already received your invitation and would like to attend, just drop a line to mac.and.cheese.review (at) gmail (dot) com. Include a link to your blog, podcast, website or what have you and she'll send an invitation your way. We'll be picnicking all afternoon, going al fresco for meetup number four, so come on out.
Don't Touch That Stereo
Date: Sat, Aug 9, 2008 Wine Tasting
Trouble Funk in all their glory. All I can remember is dancing, if you want to call it that, until drenched and totally satisfied. Go-Go was one of the great by-products of the early-to-mid-80's DC scene. Crank it up. And have a great weekend.
R. Lopez de Heredia Viña Tondonia Rosado
Date: Fri, Aug 8, 2008 Wine Tasting
I’ll be right up front in disclosing that I don’t know all that much about the history or technical specifications of the wines of R. Lopez de Heredia. For more detailed background information than I can provide, a good starting point might be this post at Sniff and Quaff, a blog that’s new to me. Of course, the Lopez de Heredia website might provide some insight, too.
One thing I can say is that R. Lopez de Heredia’s Rioja have a reputation for extremely long life. Even their Rosado bucks the general rule that most rosés are best consumed in their first year in the bottle. And then some. I can also tell you that the wines, regardless of color, spend an extraordinary length of time resting in old wood casks, an oxidative process that eventually becomes – at least, if all things go right – antioxidative. Think of it, if it helps, in the terms of calluses on one’s palms, developed through hard work, or on one’s feet, the side effect of shoeless summers. In one sense, those calluses are scar tissue, a transformation caused by exposure and abrasion; however, they also offer a certain level of protection from further harm.
Rioja Gran Reserva "Viña Tondonia" Rosado, R. Lopez de Heredia 1997There’s nothing bruised or callused about this wine, though. A blend of 20% Tempranillo, 60% Garnacha and 20% Viura, it’s come through its ten-plus year sleep with shining colors, all delicacy and distinction. Its hue, more pale apricot and new copper than pink, hints somewhat at its age. So do its aromas, at least some of them. Dried rose petals and persimmons were the first things to greet my nose, followed by a whiff of orange pekoe tea. Freshness still abounds as well, with peach skins, apricot pits and a touch of bitter orange marmalade – minus any and all suggestions of sweetness – vibrating with nervy acidity on the palate. Top that all off with a slightly saline, iodine mineral character and plenty of finesse. At this point, it’s likely that each and every bottle may result in a slightly different experience. This one was singing.
On a day when I answered one of Dr. Vino’s impossible wine pairing challenges with the suggestion of rosé (albeit of a different style than this), I’d like to pose the reverse challenge. What would you pair, or have you paired, with this wine?
I served it last night with a simple salad of fresh greens, heirloom tomatoes and decent oil-packed tuna, dressed with nothing other than a little good quality olive oil and a dash of salt and pepper. It’s a meal for which I’d almost automatically look to rosé. But it dominated Heredia’s Rosado. Nothing unpleasant resulted, mind you. The food just wiped away the delicacy and nuance of the vino.
As big a champion as I am of enjoying wine at the table rather than as a cocktail, every once in a while a wine comes along that may just be best with nothing at all. But please, prove me wrong. Let me know your thoughts.
$23. 12.5% alcohol. Cork. Importer: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY.
Getting Back to New York
Date: Thu, Aug 7, 2008 Wine Tasting
This post is a couple of weeks overdue now. In fact, if not for the “Coming Soon” roster in this blog’s left sidebar, it may have been lost (if not forgotten) in the land of posts that never saw the light of day. So, depending on your outlook – not to mention my constant reminder – that roster may be a blessing or a curse. In any event, I thought it would be fun to hit on some of my favorite places to visit in Manhattan, some of them bordering on ritual, along with one or two new spots. Whatever highlights and lowlights appear, they’re meant to connect the dots between the star-attractions already covered here over the last few weeks: dinner at Del Posto with the sparkling wines of Venturini-Baldini; an invitation to dine chez Brooklynguy; terrific ramen at Rai Rai Ken; and a stop at one of my favorite NY cheese mongers.
It may seem odd to the average New York tourist but to all you die-hard wine and food blog readers out there, it should come as no surprise that my jaunts to the city are largely built around, you guessed it, wine and food. It’s not that I never see a show (though it’s usually something off-off-Broadway), or hit any of the city’s world class museums and galleries. Nor that I don’t take advantage of New York’s great music scene with a stop at Jazz Standard, Tonic (currently on hiatus) or Knitting Factory, to name but a few faves. But a simple visit with friends combined with a little eating, drinking and shopping is often just what the doctor ordered. It can make for a great battery recharge.
The spot that borders most closely on ritual – I almost never miss a visit unless I’m stuck uptown for the duration of my stay – must be the Union Square Green Market (pictured above). It’s not that I usually stock up on the various and sundry goodies there, as walking around town for a couple of days with bags full of meat and veg doesn’t really work. I just love to check out what’s available. Besides, it’s a great place to experience humanity and to soak up some good vibes. On this visit, I did stop at Rick’s Picks for some GT-1000s, curried green tomato pickles that are fantastic on burgers and sandwiches.
Aside from the wine dinner at Del Posto, there were no high-art restaurant meals on this trip. I did stop in at an old school standby, though. In its entire scope, Balthazar may just be the closest thing to a real Parisian bistro on this side of the Atlantic. Though dinner there is plenty good – and the wine list has only improved over the years – my preferred times of day at Balthazar are morning and mid-afternoon. Breakfast it was, on this trip. I opted for the omelette with herbs. Done to a tee. Even the homefries were good. My pal Peter went whole hog. His standby, the full English breakfast, is enough to keep one’s motor running clear through to dinner time.
Lunch at Bouley Market & Bakery, on the other hand, was one of the lowlights of the trip. The place certainly has potential but it seems to suffer from a mixture of smug success and malign neglect. I might have liked the lobster salad sandwich if it hadn’t been pre-made. The raw materials were certainly good enough. Instead, it was strangely balanced between soggy and stale. It’s tough when the lighting fixtures are the most interesting thing a place has going for it.
No trip to New York is complete, at least for me, without at least a little wine shopping. Chambers Street Wines stands out for their fantastic selection of natural wines from the Loire Valley and Beaujolais, as well as for pretty solid selections in Burgundy, the Rhône, Champagne and Piedmont. There are plenty of wine geek oddballs to be found there as well, among the wines that is. Through August 9, most of what’s left in the shop is on sale for 20% off as they prepare for a move to a new location.
I’m still on the fence about Italian Wine Merchants. I stop by whenever I’m in the neighborhood as it’s hard to pass up the hedonistically voyeuristic aspects of browsing through their selection of wines from the likes of Giuseppe Quintarelli and Giacomo Conterno. It's also one of the prettiest, most peaceful wine stores I know. The problem is, I’m often left feeling like the shop exists mainly as a trophy case, as an outlet for the well heeled collector rather than the every day connoisseur. The fact that the shop is arranged by price point – wines get more expensive the deeper you get into the store – only seems to support that feeling. I guess I shouldn’t harp too stridently, though. On my most recent visit, I was helped by a very pleasant sales consultant who finagled their last bottle of Movia’s Ribolla Gialla “Lunar” for me even though it was earmarked for another customer. (Lest you’re thinking that was actually a disservice, there was more on order).
Lastly, I also had the pleasure of visiting a shop that was new to me, De Vino, owned by the ebullient Gabrio Tosti who writes occasionally on his shop-oriented blog, Vite Vinifera. Located just up the block from WD-50 and a short walk south from the Essex Street Market, De Vino sits in a thriving neighborhood and seems loaded with potential. Offerings are primarily from Italy, rounded out by small selections from the rest of Europe. Regrettably, I didn’t snap any pictures of my own so I’ll have to rely on one borrowed from De Vino’s website. No worries, though. I’m ready to go back.
Exploring Burgundy: Irancy
Date: Wed, Aug 6, 2008 Wine Tasting
Irancy is a small hamlet, with little over 300 inhabitants, situated roughly equidistant from Auxerre and Chablis, within the viticultural heart of the Auxerrois district of the Yonne Department. As in the neighboring wine villages of Chitry and Saint-Bris, the wines of Irancy make relatively rare appearances on the export market but can be extremely characterful when at their best. Formerly labeled as Bourgogne Irancy, the village was granted full communal AOC status, only for red wines, in 1998, its titular subjugation to Bourgogne thenceforth becoming unnecessary.
At latitude 47° 43' North – similar in position to Seattle, Washington or St. Johns, Newfoundland – Irancy is situated at such a northerly location that the wines can vary significantly from one year to the next, reflecting changes in vintage character even more obviously than the reds of the Côte d’Or. What really sets Irancy apart, though, is the autochthonous vine César, originally planted by the Romans.
Jancis Robinson, in her typically phlegmatic fashion, dismisses César with a quick wave of a hand in her tome, Vines, Grapes & Wines. Nonetheless, I am indebted to her for a thorough cataloging of César’s synonyms, which include Céear, Célar, Romain, Ronçain, Picargneau, Gros Monsieur and Gros Noir. And here’s a little more Césarian trivia for you. To my knowledge, Irancy is the only site specific AOC in Burgundy where the inclusion of a variety aside from Pinot Noir is considered traditional (though it’s still not required). It’s allowed – essentially as a seasoning variety – only up to 10% but, when used, offers enough of a peppering to make its personality known.
Irancy “Vieilles Vignes,” Domaine Anita, Jean-Pierre & Stéphanie Colinot 2004
Jean-Pierre Colinot should appear on just about every short list of the top producers in Irancy, not that there are many such lists given the relative obscurity of the AOC. He, his wife Anita and their daughter Stéphanie tend 12.5 hectares of vines, producing roughly 5,000 cases of wine per year. There’s a lovely profile of his estate in the Fodor’s Rivages volume, Wines and Vineyards of Character and Charm in France. The authors describe Jean-Pierre as “A magnificent raconteur who tells you about his village… and champions the César, ‘the archaeological grape variety of Irancy’…. Like the man, the red wines here have character and they talk back.”
As I haven’t had the pleasure of meeting M. Colinot, I can’t speak to his garrulousness; however, having drunk his wines over the years, I can vouch for the character of his wines and his championing of César.Colinot’s Irancy are always more deeply colored than most other reds of the Yonne, no doubt due to the inclusion of the dark fleshed César in most if not all of his cuvées. The César also tends to lend a rustic, spicy character to the more delicate inclinations of Auxerrois Pinot Noir. It shows in the estate’s 2004 Irancy “Vieilles Vignes” via immediate aromas of black pepper, burnt rubber and rhubarb. This is not your silky, sexy rendition of red Burgundy but it does deliver plenty of character, as promised. After about 15 minutes of aeration, its reductive tendencies subside and a sweet and sour, glazed red fruit element emerges which, with further air, develops into more clearly focused aromas and flavors of sweet red raspberries. Firm grip and tensile acidity, along with relatively lean fruit and those initially wild aromas, add a foreboding character to the wine as a stand-alone sipper but help it to really come alive in the presence of food. It is still showing plenty of freshness and should develop positively for another three-to-five years and continue to hold its own for up to ten. $18 on release. 13% alcohol. Cork. Importer: Wine Traditions, Falls Church, VA.
For those whose French is passable, or for those like me who are in dire need of practice, the Syndicat des Viticulteurs d’Irancy maintains a well designed and informative website, including a neat profile of Domaine Colinot. I’m indebted to the Syndicat for most of the photos used here, save that of the bottle with le chien qui s’appelle Luc, which is my own.
Notes from a 50th Anniversary
Date: Tue, Aug 5, 2008 Wine Tasting
On the surface, this may read much like previous installments of Wines with Bill or Notes from a Sunday. This time, though, there was a grander occasion at hand – the 50th wedding anniversary of my buddy Bill’s folks, who were up from North Carolina to celebrate with family. Needless to say, it was my pleasure and honor to be invited. The main point, of course, was to enjoy each other's company, but we did enjoy some good wines along the way.
Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie “Clos des Briords” Vieilles Vignes, Domaine de la Pépière (Marc Olivier) 2005 (from magnum)
This was opened and enjoyed before my arrival but, luckily, my thoughtful hosts had stashed away a bit of the bottle. Classically saline, with a burst of lemon zest on the front palate spreading into a broad, creamy mid-palate, finishing with a knife’s edge of acidity. No surprise, it rocked with the mussels Bill steamed in the same wine, richened up a bit with just a few pats of butter. Why isn’t there more Muscadet available in magnum? $30 (magnum). 12% alcohol. Cork. Importer: Louis/Dressner, New York, NY.
Vin de Table Mousseux “Le Vinsans Ricard,” Domaine Ricard NV
More fun with words from young vigneron Vincent Ricard, whose estate is based near the Touraine village of Thésée. To borrow from his own text on the label’s sidebar, this is naturally pétillant Gamay, made without dosage and only lightly filtered. Exuberant and direct, bursting with fresh raspberry and strawberry fruit, accented by a dash of watermelon and mint. Served chilled, on the porch, with barbecued chicken thighs. It’s hard to imagine a better match. $22. 12.5% alcohol. Cork. Importer: Petit Pois, Moorestown, NJ.
Touraine Pinot Noir Rosé, Domaine des Corbillières 2007
“Le Vinsans” was a tough act to follow, a challenge made tougher by this rosé’s almost total lack of aroma. In the mouth, however, it gave a pleasant enough display of watermelon fruit and mineral character, combined with a vegetal hint that reminded me of boston lettuce. Surprisingly long on the finish and a reasonable match with a very tasty bowl of gazpacho. $12. 12.5% alcohol. Cork. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC.
Moulin à Vent Vieilles Vignes “Réserve d’Amélie,” Domaine Gérard Charvet 2004
I was really pleased to see this make an appearance as it had been a couple of years since my last taste. Not as altogether happening as I hoped/expected but there was definitely nothing amiss; the wine’s just in a bit of a dumb phase. Still, it would be a fine antidote for anyone who is still a nonbeliever in the joys of Beaujolais. Granitic minerality layered atop briary, black cherry pit flavors. Lighter than I remembered up front but with a depth of flavor that belies its weight. $16 on release. 13% alcohol. Cork. Importer: Wine Traditions, Falls Church, VA.
Montlouis-sur-Loire "Les Choisilles," François Chidaine 2002
Another wine I hadn’t visited in a while and this time I was very surprised. Much more evolved and oxidative than I would have expected and really not showing very well. Intense grip and some sense of remaining muscular anatomy on the finish but all cobwebs and moth-eaten clothes up front. Wool clothes, that is, given its intensely lanolin nose. I’m still holding a couple of bottles so I’ll have to hope it’s just going through an awkward phase. $23 on release. 12% alcohol. Cork. Importer: Petit Pois, Moorestown, NJ.
Savennières "Clos de Saint Yves," Domaine du Baumard 1997
This provided an interesting contrast to the Chidaine, at once more evolved in its overall state yet still in possession of greater freshness of feel. Frail, lacy and pretty, with aromas of almond cookies and chamomile tea. To continue the funereal metaphor, more like a well-preserved skeleton, dressed in a silk chemise. $25. 13.5% alcohol. Cork. Importer: Ex Cellars, Solvang, CA.
Saar Kanzemer Sonnenberg Riesling Grösses Gewächs, Weingut Johann Peter Reinert 2005This was opened, in spite of its painful youth, as recompense for the lackluster showings of the two Chenins. My note taking dropped off at this point, so I can only offer some basic, instinctive impressions. Pure nerves of steel, with Reinert’s typical touch of grace and expressive fruit maintained, even given the physiological intensity of what equates to an Auslese trocken from the Saar. Wine to hold and savor. $48. 13% alcohol. Vinolok. Importer: Petit Pois, Moorestown, NJ.
The Flavor Purple
Date: Mon, Aug 4, 2008 Wine Tasting
A constantly changing bounty of fruit has been available since the beginning of the growing season here in the Philly area. And there's plenty more on the horizon, as we're now moving out of berry season, into the heart of melon and stone fruit season, with pears, apples and their cousins still to come. The show stopper of what's come thus far, at least to this nibbler, has to have been the Purpleheart Plum from North Star Orchard. The skin of the fruit barely hints at what's lurking inside, flesh so vibrantly and purely purple that, to quote Jay Kerchner, "It'll stain your shirt." I'm told that the Kerchner's, owners of North Star Orchard, have only one Purpleheart tree. If true, it's a shame, as these are outrageously good. If someone were to scribe a dictionary of color/taste associations, this plum should get the entry, hands down, for the flavor purple.
Quick Sips
Date: Sun, Aug 3, 2008 Wine Tasting
Recently, I had a chance to revisit Jacky Truchot’s 2005 Bourgogne Rouge. Really, it was everything you could ask for in a glass of young Burgundy. Purity of aroma, finely detailed texture and totally focused flavors. I blinked and missed the opportunity to buy any of Domaine Truchot-Martin’s ‘05s. A shame, as I love the wines and it was Jacky’s last vintage before retiring, with no heirs to continue his work. The man’s wines will be missed. Luckily, I have a good friend who caught the train and who’s generous enough to share. With each sip, it seems a little like drinking history. But then, I suppose you could say that about all real wine.
On a lighter note, Movia’s 2005 Tocai Friulano, which I wrote up on Friday, held up beautifully into its second day. Taking on a rounder, slightly softer feel, it also picked up a seductively sweet herbaceousness that was hidden on day one. Exactly what I imagine cannabis honey would taste like. Does anyone produce such a thing?
Market Meal Meets Movia
Date: Fri, Aug 1, 2008 Wine Tasting
Late night dinner yesterday, after a long day at work. It would have been too easy to fall into the bowl of cereal trap but I refused. Instead, I fired up the grill and threw together a quick salad while I waited for it to heat up. Lettuce from North Star Orchard, cucumber and tomato from Blooming Glen Farm, all dressed with nothing more than good olive oil and a pinch of salt and pepper. Grill ready, I threw on an herb marinated poussin that I’d picked up from Griggstown Quail Farm, another stalwart at the Headhouse market. I usually shy away from pre-seasoned meats but I gave this a shot last year and let’s just say it’s damn good. There’s definitely something to be said for the ease of putting together a quick meal during market season. Good raw ingredients need so little work. Now, for something to open while the wee bird cooked.
Brda Točaj (Tokai Friulano) "Gredič," Movia 2005
Ah, yes. This was a revelation. A bit choked at first but once it caught its breath it exhaled aromas of pure white peach, lemon peel and honeydew melon, topped off with a sweetly scented sprinkling of crystalline mineral character. Perfectly integrated oak, very subtle in its presence. Firm flesh and an explosion of the same fruit flavors that had wafted up to my nose balanced its crackling spine of acidity. With dinner, it was even better, coming alive with the sweet herbs and juicy flesh of the grilled poussin. A seriously great value. And as to the ridiculous alliteration in this post’s title, it just spells Mmmm, as in seriously tasty. $18. 12% alcohol. Cork. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY.
Second Season at the Headhouse Farmers Market
Date: Thu, Jul 31, 2008 Wine Tasting
There's been a tremendous explosion in the spread and popularity of the "Buy Fresh, Buy Local" credo in the Philadelphia area over the last few years. One need look no further than this year's schedule of markets organized by The Food Trust and Farm to City to get a sense of just how much great stuff is out there. As much as I love my local market, it's hard to deny that the area's most vibrant, thriving and diverse center for regional growers -- and local shoppers -- must be The Headhouse Farmers Market.
Last Sunday, I finally made it down to Headhouse for the first time this season, ostensibly to lend a hand to a friend who has a table there. During the rare lull in activity, I took the opportunity to wander around, do a little provisioning and snap a few photos.
The market is anchored by fresh fruit and vegetable growers such as Blooming Glen Farm (above) and Weavers Way (below).
Headhouse gains depth from the range and diversity of its many small, specialty producers, such as Yoder Heirlooms (above) and Culton Organics. I'm pretty sure that's Tom Culton sportin' the straw cap in the photo below but please correct me if I'm wrong. My note taking was nonexistent, so I'm working on memory cells here.
Spring Hills Farm is another of the market's specialty producers. Emily (pictured above) worked the market all day selling wool and maple syrup, two of the primary products (along with Xmas trees) harvested on her family's property in Dalton, PA.
Lunchtime: Tacos al Pastor and Huitlacoche Quesadillas. If hunger strikes, seriously good Mexican street food is available right at the market, prepared by the crew from South Philly's Los Taquitos de Puebla.
A shot of the market crowd as the ring of the closing bell approached.Headhouse Farmers Market
Sundays from 10AM to 2PM
Under the Shambles at
2nd & Lombard Streets
Philadelphia, PA 19147