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The Passionate Foodie Friends

Stoddard's Fine Food & Ale: Pickles to Rabbit

Date: Wed, Jul 28, 2010 Wine Tasting

Back in January, I first visited Stoddard's Fine Food & Ale, to attend a pre-opening cocktail party. It was a visually compelling restaurant and bar, with a fascinating architecture and decor, especially to a history buff like me. Though the restaurant was not fully completed, you still could perceive the totality of the image the owners were trying to present.

But due to multiple delays, months passed before the restaurant finally opened. And their "private club" still has not opened, though I was told it would open in September. I was recently invited to check out the restaurant, now that it has been open for a time. I was accompanied by Jackie, the Leather District Gourmet, and we were very curious what we would discover at Stoddard's.

The restaurant building was built around 1848, in a Greek Revival Style. "It’s been a corset store, sewing machine retailer, bait and tackle shop, and cutlery." The history is reflected in nearly every aspect of the restaurant, making this a fascinating stop for tourists or anyone interested in Boston history. On a Wednesday evening, the restaurant was quite busy, and there were almost no empty tables. I did not expect them to be so busy on a Wednesday, but obviously the restaurant has become quite popular.

Some might refer to Stoddard's as a gastropub, a term which can be vague but commonly refers to a bar with high quality food, a cut above the average pub fare. That definition is appropriate, as their cuisine is very good, and often better than what is usually found in bars and pubs. To elevate their cuisine, the owners chose Executive Chef Mark Cina to run their kitchen, and I believe they made a very good choice. Chef Cina has worked at places including Rendezvous, Craigie Street Bistrot, and Ivy.

Though before considering the food, I should begin with the beverages. First, they have a huge beer list, including about five cask ales. As I am not a beer aficianado, the list does not appeal to me but I certainly respect its diversity. For a beer lover, there is much to appreciate. Second, they have a full bar and have created a list of special cocktails, essentially using very old recipes. I tried their House Punch, which is made with bourbon, port and orange juice, and found it quite tasty. It was not overly sweet, having a bit more tartness, and with nice fruity flavors. The Moscow Mule, made from vodka, lime and ginger beer, was refreshing and delicious, with a prominent ginger taste. An excellent drink for a hot summer day.

Back to the food. The restaurant has a "by scratch" kitchen, meaning that nearly everything is made in-house. That definitely appeals to me, knowing that the food is prepared fresh and it not previously frozen or processed. The Menu consists of Hors D'Oeuvres, Appetizers (most $8-$11), Entrees (most $13-$25), and Side Dishes. Dishes are reasonably priced, considering the quality and quantity of food.

An excellent start to your dinner would be the Charcuterie Plate (Market price), which has eight different types of meats including pate de campagne with pistachios, bresaola, sausage with eggs, duck prosciutto and more. I found the various meats to be quite flavorful, spiced properly, and texturally alluring. This charcuterie plate certainly shows much skill and was a very promising way to begin our meal. My only criticism is that the bread slices were a bit soft, and I would have preferred a crunchier, stiffer bread or crackers.

The Pot of Pickles ($4) has plenty of home-made gherkins and bread & butter chips. Though the gherkins were ok, nothing special, I really enjoyed the bread & butter pickles. They had a nice crispness with a mild sweetness.

Their Onion Rings ($6) brought up memories of my childhood days visiting the amusement park at Salisbury Beach. I used to get a box of onion rings like these, large, thick battered and sweet. Such a pleasant memory and these onion rings were clean, fresh, and delicious.

For the carnivore in you, try the Beef Tartare ($10), with elephant garlic chips, sauce gribiche, and toasted brioche. These brioche are what I would have preferred for the charcuterie plate. The tartare, chopped to order, was smooth, flavorful and meaty with an intriguing, mild citrus taste. I liked the addition of the garlic chips too, which only had a mild garlic flavor. A recommended dish.

Another good appetizer was the Aged Gouda and Cask Ale Fondue ($10) with house made pretzel bites and crudite, including green apple slices. Using two types of gouda, the gouda flavor was most prominent with the ale taste only a background taste. Who doesn't enjoy cheese fondue? The pretzel bites were good with the cheese, as were the green apple slices, which I have long found a perfect accompaniement to fondue.

The Meyer Ranch All Natural Beef Rib Eye (market price) is a seared and fat poached cap, roasted glazed eye, potato puree and asparagus. Though a tasty and well-prepared steak, it just didn't seem anything special. You won't go wrong with this dish, but if you are seeking something exciting, this is not the choice.

For something exciting, definitely order the Ballotine of Vermont Rabbit ($24), a boneless rabbit stuffed with rabbit mousse and wrapped in house pancetta , served with glazed salsify and stewed prunes. Rabbit is an underappreciated meat, one which I very much enjoy. It actually can be a very sustainable meat too. This dish was superb, with a delightful combination of harmonious textures and flavors. You would not even realize you were eating rabbit if you just tried the dish. The tender and flavorful meat was compelling, and highly recommended.

For dessert, we tried the Chocolate Terrine with a fresh blueberry compote and homemade whipped cream. This was a very rich, dense chocolate dish which was almost like fudge.

Overall, I was impressed with Stoddard's. The food was often very good, flavorful and reasonably priced. The restaurant is a place to get a good drink or a beer, as well as to enjoy some quality cuisine. It exceeded my expectations and I recommend that you stop by for dinner and drinks.

Stoddard's Fine Food & Ale
48 Temple Place
Boston, MA
Phone: (617) 426-0048

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Stoneham Sun: Urban Grape-Wine By Weight

Date: Wed, Jul 28, 2010 Wine Tasting

My new column of "A Passionate Foodie" can be found in the July 28 issue of the Stoneham Sun newspaper. This is a weekly column that concentrates on reviews of local restaurants though it also sometimes touches on other food and wine topics.

The new column has been published today and will be available online soon. The new article is a review of the new Urban Grape, a wine store in Chestnut Hill. The wine store carries over 800 wines, over 200 crafts beers, 15+ Sakés, and spirits. Plus, it has Enomatic machines, allowing customers to taste 16 wines, for free, anytime they visit the store. The store also stocks their wines in a more unique way, by weight/body. It is well worth checking out this store.

If you have any questions or comments about my column, feel free to add them here.

Drink with passion.

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Rant: Why So Hard To Be True?

Date: Mon, Jul 26, 2010 Wine Tasting

Though I want to give my support to those who ardently advocate for local, sustainable food, I sometimes find it hard to do when those advocates don't live up to their convictions. Especially when it would have been easy for them to follow through on their own words. This struck me once again this past weekend.

Yesterday, I attended the Vermont Cheesemakers Festival in Shelburne, Vermont. It was generally a fun and tasty time, especially as I met several friends there, including some other local bloggers. There was plenty of delicious food and drink available for tasting, and I will go into much more detail in the near future. But what bothered me occurred during a cooking demonstration.

As it was hot in the barn, I decided to sit in the courtyard and watch a demo by Chef Sean Buchanan of the Stowe Mountain Lodge, who is an advocate and crusader for the use of local, organic and natural ingredients. He prepared five different recipes, and most of the ingredients he used were local ones. But, while preparing one of the appetizer dishes, he used a meat, a pork product, from San Francisco! This was a jarring inconsistency to the theme of the demostration, of the use of local ingredients.

There was no reason he couldn't have used locally made meat. There are plenty of local, artisan pork producers in Vermont. He seemed to have taken the care to select plenty of other local ingredients. So it saddened me to see such a disconnect. It is such moments that make you doubt a person's sincerity to their stated cause. It would have been so easy to follow through, and select a Vermont-made meat.

If you have strong convictions, please just follow through on them, especially when it is easy. Though you should follow through with them even when it is hard. That is what makes them true convictions.

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Saké Nomi News Article

Date: Sun, Jul 25, 2010 Wine Tasting

Check out a new article in the Japan Times, "Seattle pair put sake on local map" by Kris Kosaka. It is about Johnnie and Taiko Stroud, who established Saké Nomi, a Saké shop and tasting bar in Seattle. The story tells about their background and discusses a bit about their store. This is one of only four all-Saké stores in the U.S., and unfortunately I have not had the opportunity to visit it yet. But I do receive their email newsletter and it sounds like a very cool place.

If any of my readers have been there, please add your thoughts to the comments. Thanks.

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Stanhope Grille: Taza Chocolate Desserts

Date: Fri, Jul 23, 2010 Wine Tasting

Executive Chef Raymond Southern of The Back Bay Hotel and Stanhope Grille, a locavore with a penchant for chocolate, is rushing to aid the flash flood-damaged Taza Stone Ground Chocolate in Somerville. After a discussion with his chocolatier associates, they came up with a solution to help replace their damaged machinery: Buy more chocolate!

From now through the month of August, Executive Chef Raymond Southern will be giving an extra “push” to menu items that incorporate the luxurious Taza Stone Ground Chocolate. Each guest of Stanhope Grille will depart dinner with bite-sized versions of Chef’s signature Boston Cooking School Brownies. On the other side, The Back Bay Hotel will be giving the bite-sized brownies as a departure gift to guests, along with their customary packet of Forget-Me-Not seeds.

Executive Chef Raymond Southern’s Taza Stone Ground Chocolate menu items that will be available through August:

Stone Ground Chocolate Pudding $9
(Taza Stone Ground Chocolate, Malted Vanilla Ice Cream, Chopped Georgia Peanuts)

Salted Caramel Ice Cream Sandwich $8
(Taza Chiapan Chocolate Cookie, Locally Produced Batch Fair Trade Ice Cream)(This sounds like it would be my choice of the bunch).

Boston Cooking School Brownies $9
(Our Rendition of Fannie Merritt Farmers 1911 Recipe Using Taza Fair Trade Stone Ground Chocolate)

Taza Chocolate French (French) Toast $20
Classic Style Baked French Toast with Melted XStone Ground Chocolate, Topped with Crispy Maple Smoked Bacon and Vermont Syrup
--Available as a Sunday Brunch Plate; price also includes a basket of breakfast breads, 100% Florida Orange choice, your choice of Starbucks Coffee or Tazo Tea, and your choice of a Bloody Mary or Mimosa

Taza Chiapan Chocolate Pie $33.10
(Black Cherry Jus, Fried Orange Zest, Chantilly Cream
**Available in a 3-course prix fixe only during Restaurant Week Boston from August 15-20; 22-27

I previously visited the Taza Chocolate factory and was impressed with their philosophy and products. The recent torrential rains caused flooding at their factory and they are trying to rebound. Why not help them out and buy some Taza products?

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Thursday Sips & Nibbles

Date: Thu, Jul 22, 2010 Wine Tasting

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my semi-regular column where I briefly mention some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) Last year, I had a superb dining experience at David Burke Prime Steakhouse at the Foxwoods Casino. Since then, I know several people who have also had excellent meals there, including their Sunday brunch and Monday lobster specials. I recently returned to Foxwoods and chose to return to David Burke. The food was once again quite good, fine steaks and prime rib, though we had some service issues. It was as if our server was not really listening to us, and committed several minor errors. There was nothing significant, but enough little things added up so that the dining experience was marred. Based on what I have heard from others about their experiences, this seems more of an isolated incident.

2) Sam's Bistro in Reading is now open and I recently stopped by for lunch. The menu is somewhat different from Stearn's & Hill's Bistro. The lunch menu includes appetizers, soups, salads, sandwiches and entrees. Prices seem reasonable and quantity is good, if not sometimes quite large. Food quality was a bit uneven, some dishes being very good, and others so-so, but I do realize this is a very new restaurant which requires some time to work out its kinks. A couple of the highlights include a large and tasty Salmon BLT sandwich and a very good Mac n' Cheese side dish. Service was a bit slow too and that may also be due to the newness of the restaurant. I will be returning and will report back again.

3) Chef Dante de Magistris of Restaurant dante is bringing back the tradition of his signature Italian film-inspired grilled cheese sandwiches, available for $2 each at the bar and lounge on Tuesdays. Chef Dante de Magistris’ newest installation of Grilled Cheese Tuesdays includes the following:

July 27th: Roman Holiday: crescenza cheese, pistachio, sundried tomato
August 3rd: Three Coins in the Fountain: buffalo mozzarella, tomato, basil, pepperoncini
August 10th: Under the Tuscan Sun: smoked scarmoza, pancetta, arugula

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Stoneham Sun: Stoneham Farmers' Market

Date: Wed, Jul 21, 2010 Wine Tasting

My new column of "A Passionate Foodie" can be found in the July 21 issue of the Stoneham Sun newspaper. This is a weekly column that concentrates on reviews of local restaurants though it also sometimes touches on other food and wine topics.

The new column has been published today and will be available online soon. The new article is a review of the new Stoneham Farmers' Market on the Town Common. It is larger than last year, with more vendors, and is located in a more easily accessible area. It is well worth checking out, and you are likely to find me there each week, stocking up on a few items such as Mamadou's bread.

If you have any questions or comments about my column, feel free to add them here.

Dine with passion.

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Some Wine Makers Love Climate Change

Date: Tue, Jul 20, 2010 Wine Tasting

Is climate change actually good for wine vineyards? Some winemakers seem to think so, as it has helped them achieve consecutive years of excellent vintages. So they have little incentive to make any changes that would either adapt to climate change, or take measures to decrease their carbon footprint.

Are these winemakers correct, should we not care about climate change? Or are they blind to the true dangers ahead, and if so, how do you convince them otherwise?

In the current issue of Mother Jones magazine (August 2010), there is an interesting article,"Grapes of Wrath," by Mark Hertsgaard. It concerns the effect of climate change on vineyards and wine making, and is adapted from his forthcoming book, Hot: Living Through the Next Fifty Years on Earth.

Mark mentions how some winemakers are joyous about climate change. "Some of the most expensive wines in Spain come from the Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa regions," Pancho Campo, the founder and president of the Wine Academy of Spain, says. "They are getting almost perfect ripeness every year now for Tempranillo. This makes the winemakers say, 'Who cares about climate change? We are getting perfect vintages.' The same thing has happened in Bordeaux. It is very difficult to tell someone, 'This is only going to be the case for another few years.'" (p.38)

How do you argue with these winemakers? How can you convince them that these prime vintages won't last? It may be a very difficult task.

Mark continues with a dire prediction for vineyards in the U.S., though obviously the potential threat is worldwide. "If current trends continue, the "premium wine grape production area [in the United States]...could decline by up to 81 percent by the late 21st century," a team of scientists wrote in a study published in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences in 2006. The culprit was not so much the rise in average temperatures but an increased frequency of extremely hot days, defined as above 35 degrees Celsius (95 degrees Fahrenheit). If no adaptation measures were taken, these increased heat spikes would "eliminate wine grape production in many areas of the United States," the scientists wrote." (p.38)

Is this how most people react, unconcerned unless something directly affects them? And if it benefits them, are they are less likely to be concerned? When they finally act, will it be too late?

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Rant: Why So Creamy & Rich?

Date: Mon, Jul 19, 2010 Wine Tasting

It seems to be that a salad is intended to be a light dish. It is usually a precursor to your heavier entree. The key is having fresh vegetables and other, similar items (such as eggs, bacon, tuna, etc.) in the salad. You want to be able to enjoy their fresh, individual tastes. So, it makes sense that any dressing applied to the salad should also be light, with some flavor of its own but not so much that it overwhelms and conceals the flavors of the salad itself. It should provide an accent, a compliment, and not take center stage.

So why is it so common to find thick, cream and rich dressings atop salads? Russian, Blue Cheese, French and more. That seems to run counter to the purpose of a salad. Those dressings would seem to conceal the flavors of the vegetables, making the dressing the most prominent taste. Plus, it makes the whole dish much heavier, and thus your entire meal heavier too. Is that really what you want? Why conceal your fresh and tasty vegetables?

Another good reason not to opt for such heavy dressings is that they are usually less healthy than vinaigrettes and other light dressings. Seems to defeat the intent of a healthy salad to add a less healthy, thick and creamy dressing. It is like eating a healthy piece of fruit for dessert, like a banana, but then adding chocolate sauce onto it.

Savor your vegetables! (Yes, that is really me talking). Don't hide them behind a thick curtain of dressing.

If you like creamy, rich dressings on your salad, please tell me why.

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Comparison Tastings Are Educational

Date: Sun, Jul 18, 2010 Wine Tasting

Probably the best way to learn about wine is to taste. No matter how much you read and learn, unless you have actually tasted the wine, there will be a gap in your knowledge. Tasting can solidify and reinforce what you know, provide you a concrete example of what you only theoretically understand. But not all tastings are the same. Some can be far more educational than others, and I would like to see more of those tastings around.

At the Saké Professional Course, we tasted about 90 different Sakés, and they were specifically grouped to provide the maximum amount of information. The Sakés were set up for comparison tastings, which helped you truly understand the differences caused by various brewing practices. Those type of comparison tastings would be extremely useful for wine as well. Let me discuss a bit more about the Saké comparisons I experienced.

We began with a vertical tasting of the various main types and grades of Saké, from Futsu-shu to Daiginjo. That proceeded to a more detailed exploration of the effect of rice polishing. We tasted three Dassai Junmais, similar in all respects except their Seimai Buai, rice polishing rate. The Seimai Buais were 50%, 39% and 23%. That then led to a tasting of mainly Junmai Ginjo, primarily different only in the type of rice used. From those tastings, you understood the effects of these two factors, rice polishing and rice type, far better than what any book could teach you.

The yeast used to brew Saké primarily affects the aroma, but will affect the taste a bit as well. That was shown through a tasting of 9 brews, which varied mainly in the type of yeast used. For example, we tasted three examples of the Nanbu Bijin Daiginjo, varied only by the yeasts: Iwate yeast, Hiroshima Ginjo yeast and Meiri yeast. And there were significant differences.

There were then comparison tastings of Namazake (unpasteurized) vs Pasteurized Saké, including a couple that had gone bad. One of my favorite parts of the tasting was a showcase of Saké brewed in the Yamahai and Kimoto methods. It was then interesting to follow up with a comparison tasting of three Nanbu Bijin Daiginjos, the same except each was produced by a different pressing method: Yabuta, Funeshibori and Shizuku. We moved onto a comparison of Saké aging, including a tasting of three years (2004, 2006 & 2008) of the Nanbu Bijin Tokubetsu Junmai.

A fun tasting was a sampling of more esoteric and different styles of Saké, from Sparkling to Nigori, from Zenkoji to a Honjozo Muroka Nama Genshu. I really found the Zenkoji to be intriguing, a sweeter drink but with complexity and depth of flavor. We moved onto a comparison of glassware, the effect of a traditional porcelin ochoko compared to a more modern wine glass. There were definitely differences. Next, there was a tasting of Saké at various temperatures, showing that gently warming Saké can sometimes be the best. For our final tasting, we tasted Saké from various prefectures of Japan, seeing how regionality can affect taste and style.

Unfortunately, too many local wine tastings are simply a mix of different wines, and do not constitute comparison tastings. The main goal at those tastings is to see if you enjoy the wines or not. It would be more educational to hold comparison tastings, to teach the differences involved in wine making. For example, showcase three Chardonnays, but one without malolactic fermentation, one with partial malolactic and one with full malolactic. Or showcase three wines, with similar blends, except a differing percentage of a specific grape. The tasters will still have the opportunity to determine whether they like the wines or not, but they will also learn something from the tasting.

To make wine less intimidating, the consumer needs to be educated about wine, and comparison tastings are one path toward that goal. Wine stores, why not add some comparison tastings to your events list. Consumers, ask your local wine store owner to set up some comparison tastings.

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What Is The Best Way To Organize a Wine Store?

Date: Sat, Jul 17, 2010 Wine Tasting

Most wine stores are set up in a similar fashion, with the wines separated by region/country and/or grape type. Sometimes they might also have sections for different wine types, such as sparkling wines and dessert wines. I find this type of set-up easy to navigate, and it allows me to zero in on the specific type of wine I might be seeking.

For a knowledgeable wine lover, I think this set-up works well, but what about the average consumer, someone who might only have limited wine knowledge? Does this type of organization cause problems for the average consumer? Is there a better way to organize a wine store?

The average consumer, if unfamiliar with the various wine regions, might only look at those areas which he knows something about. He might ignore certain countries and regions. He might not expand his taste horizons, sticking to the usual wines. Such a consumer might need help from the wine store staff, to get suggestions for other wines he might enjoy, based on his tastes.

To help these consumers, some wine stores organize their wines in a different way, generally by style or weight. This is intended to be more consumer friendly, to help them find similar wines to those they already enjoy. Though it generally still requires the assistance of the wine store staff, to help describe the system to their customers, as well as help them find the type of wines they want. Let me use a couple of new stores as examples of alternative wine organization.

First, The Urban Grape, a new wine store in Chestnut Hill, generally organizes their wines by weight, using a ten point system, 1 for the lightest wine to 10 for the heaviest wines. But they still separate their wines by a few categories as well, including whites, reds, rose, sparkling wine and Kosher. Within each category though, they still use their ten point system. The owners state this has worked out well for them and many customers have appreciated the system.

As the rating system is based on the owner's palate, customers may not always agree with his decisions. You might find a wine to be lighter or heavier than it is rated, though generally it should not be a significant difference. It might be beneficial for the store to hold some comparison tastings, showing the differences of the rated wines. For example, they could let customers taste five red wines, rated 4-8, showing how the wines get progressively heavier. There is also difficulty if you are seeking all of the wines of a specific grape or region. You must either look through all of the shelves, or get assistance from the staff. That would make it tougher and more time consuming if I were just seeking which Greek wines they carried.

Second, Pairings: Exploring Wine & Food is another relatively new wine store in Winchester and they only recently chosen to arrange their wines by style, in nine categories. This reminds me of the system that Best Cellars used to use, with categories like Fresh, Juicy & Soft Reds and Soft & Aromatic Whites. This is still a work in progress, and they have been considering customer input. So some of the details may change in the near future.

Within each category, they often stock the wines in alphabetical order, by name of the prominent grape. But, they also have tried to keep wines made from the same grape within the same category, even if a specific wine does not fit that category. For example, all of the Pinot Noirs are in the Smooth & Elegant category, even if they would be more appropriate in Fresh, Juicy & Soft Reds.

I don't think you can have it both ways. If you want to use the categories effectively, you should separate the same grape if warranted. They do separate Chardonnay, between the Unoaked and Oaked ones, so they could do the same with others. If a customer buys a Pinot from the Smooth & Elegant section, but it actually is a juicy, soft wine, will the cashier always know to ask the customer if that is what they wanted? Their system, like that of Urban Grape, also has a problem if a customer comes in seeking just wines from a certain wine region.

I am conflicted about these alternative methods of organization. I do see some issues with them but I also understand the reasons behind them. For the average wine consumer, these alternative methods may actually be better. But, for the more advanced wine lover, I am not sure they are that useful, and may actually cause more problems.

This could be due to a difference in how the average consumer as opposed to an advanced wine lover buys wine. The average consumer is usually buying wine for an immediate need, such as dinner or a party. They commonly will drink the wine they buy within 24 hours. So they are seeking a specific type of wine, maybe something to pair with a scallop dinner or a nice BBQ wine. It then makes sense for them to seek a wine by style or weight. For example, Pairings emphasizes food and wine pairing, so its category system assists in that goal.

When I go to a wine store, I am more there to seek out something interesting, but which I might not drink for weeks, or even months. I rarely go seeking a wine I need that evening. So I don't care so much about selecting a wine by weight or style, as I am not filling a specific need. I am more apt to be seeking something exotic from Greece or Israel that I will try in the near future. So, organizing wines by region is much more useful to me.

I realize though that there are far more average consumers than people like me. There is probably no optimal way to organize a wine store, all systems having their advantages and disadvantages. But, catering to the larger audience is probably a more financially beneficial system for a wine store. If the style/weight organizational system is more effective for the average consumer, then maybe it is the way to set up a wine store.

No matter how the wine store is organized though, it still is very important that the wine store staff be knowledgeable and capable of helping their customers find wines they might enjoy. They still have to explain how the store is organized, describing the details of any alternative system of organization. I think that maybe the nature and knowledge of your employees is more important than the actual method of organization. Their help, or lack thereof, to a customer, will affect your bottomline far more than how the wines are shelved. So wine store owners need to choose their staff with great care.

What do you think is the best way to organize a wine store?

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Magners Irish Cider: A Richer, Earthier Taste

Date: Fri, Jul 16, 2010 Wine Tasting

It has been quite enlightening on my hard cider quest, learning how very different these ciders can be. I had expected to find many similarities and only minor differences, but that has not been the case. Though all have an apple flavor, their styles and flavor profiles have been widely divergent. My latest tasting, Magners Irish Cider, was no different.

In 1935, commercial cider production began in Clonmel, Ireland by local man William Magner. He was successful and in 1937, he secured rights from English cider-makers H.P. Bulmer and Company to use the Bulmers brand name in Ireland. In 1949, Mr. Magner withdrew from the business and the Bulmers name became prominent. But, to avoid confusion with the English cider, the cider is sold outside of Ireland as Magners Original Irish Cider. This is Magner's 10th anniversary in the U.S.

The cider is made from 17 different apple varieties including Michellin, Dabinett, Yarlington Mill, Bulmer's Norman, Tremlett's Bitter, Breakwell Seedling, Taylor's, Harry Master's Jersey, Medaille d'Or, Reine des Pommes, Ashton Bitter, Brambley's, Grenadier, Brown Thorn, Brown Snout, Vilberies and improved Dove. They grow many of their own apples in a 250 acre orchard in Clonmel. They also purchase additional apples, being Ireland's largest buyer of apples. buy some apples from other Irish growers.

The Magners Vat House, where the cider ferments, was commissioned in 1936 and most of the vats, from 2000 to 60,000 gallons, are oak. Many other cider companies do not use oak vats for fermentation. They also use the same presses they have been using for the last fifty years. In addition, they filter their cider while other companies only pasteurize their cider. These differences do affect the taste of the final product.

Magners Irish Cider has 125 calories per 11.2 oz, is 4.5% alcohol and is also 100% gluten free. The taste really pleased me. It has only a light carbonation, which I prefer, and is mostly dry, with only the slightest hint of sweetness. It does not remind me of normal apple cider but has an earthier, richer flavor, which is likely due to the vats. The apple flavors are more subdued, though noticeable, with a bit of bitterness, though not in an unpleasant way. This is definitely the type of hard cider I could drink all day as the flavor profile really appeals to me. I really enjoy its earthier taste, and I think it might pair well with foods that other hard ciders might not.

Something you might not consider, but you could also cook with Magners Irish Cider. Why not? Plenty of people use regular apple cider while cooking, so it is not a big step up to hard cider. I was provided several recipe examples but one stood out to me:

Seared Scallop with Potato and Roasted Quince Cider Sauce

Ingredients:
2 large dry scallops-cut in half (scallops which come 8-10 per pound work best)
1 cooked Idaho potato (cut into rings the same size as the scallops)
4 TBL butter
6 oz. Magners cider
1 shallot
1 tomato diced
1 bunch of basil (chopped for chiffonade)
1 Quince (diced)
salt and pepper to taste

Directions:
1. Core and peel Quince. Sauté in butter until soft. Set aside for sauce.
2. Heat pan until it is very hot. Add a little oil. Season scallops and potatoes with salt and pepper. Add potatoes and scallops and sear.
3. Brown scallops. Flip and remove immediately.
4. Finish browning potatoes on both sides. Remove potatoes.
5. Drain oil. Add shallots and lightly sauté. Add Magners cider and reduce by 1/2. Add diced tomato. Slowly whip in butter. Season with salt and pepper. Add chopped basil and roasted Quince. Stir well and remove from heat.

To Plate:
Arrange potatoes and scallops in a circle in the center of the plate, alternating. Spoon sauce on plate around scallops and potatoes (not over the scallops and potatoes). Serve.

Have you tasted Magners Irish Cider? And if so, what were your thoughts?

Disclosure: I received free samples of the Magners Irish Cider.

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Copa Jerez Wine & Food Pairing Competition

Date: Thu, Jul 15, 2010 Wine Tasting

The Sherry Council of America announced that the U.S. National Finals for the Copa Jerez Wine & Food Pairing competition will be held in New York City on October 6th, 2010. Chef and sommelier teams across the United States are invited to compete for the U.S. Finals. The winning U.S. team will be chosen by a panel of judges to compete in Spain at Copa Jerez, the international food and Sherry competition, against renowned chefs and sommeliers from eight countries including Spain, the United Kingdom, Germany, Belgium, Denmark, the Netherlands, and Japan.

To select the U.S. Finalists, a panel of expert judges will narrow down the submissions to three teams. These teams will travel to New York City for a live cook-off on October 6th to present their creations at the U.S. National Finals. One team will be selected as the winner and will then travel to Jerez, Spain to compete for the International Copa Jerez title.

Submissions will be received during the summer, with a deadline of August 15th. “We expect record submissions this year,” said Steve Olson, lead judge of the U.S. national panel. “The versatility of Sherry allows sommeliers and chefs to really express their creativity, so we are seeing an even greater diversity in the types of cuisine that enter the competition- from Sushi to Steakhouse.”

During the 2009 Copa Jerez competition, Roger Kugler and Seamus Mullen from Suba Restaurant in New York City were selected as the winning U.S. team. Roger Kugler went on to receive the award for “Best Sommelier” in the international competition, making him the first American to win this title.

“I’ve been integrating Sherry into my wine menus for some time now, so I saw this competition as a great opportunity,” said Roger Kugler. “It was a great honor to win, and share my passion for Sherry, showing how well it works with so many foods and flavors. ”

“Copa Jerez showcases the innovative ways top chefs and sommeliers experiment with the flavor profiles of Sherry wine,” said Sonia Smith, Director of the Sherry Council of America. “It is a wonderful way to discover authentic Sherry wines, from Jerez – a town in Spain’s southern-most province of Andalucía.”

For more information about the competition or for rules and regulations please contact Natalie Alhonte at 202-777-3549 or nalhonte@clsdc.com.

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Thursday Sips & Nibbles

Date: Thu, Jul 15, 2010 Wine Tasting

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my semi-regular column where I briefly mention some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) I recently had brunch at AKA Bistro, where I have previously had some excellent lunches. Brunch was just as enjoyable with top notch food and very good service. The Panier de Viennoiseries fait maison ($9) is a basket of assorted breads and pastries, all made on premises. It included a croissant (light, flaky and buttery), pan de chocolate, madeline and more. The Omelette printaniere ($12), which is an omelet with asparagus, vegetables and fresh goat cheese was quite large and delicious with an ample portion of thinly sliced potatoes. And the Oeuf en Brioche et bacon ($12) was an intriguing and tasty dish, a poached egg baked into a home made brioche with bacon pieces. Overall, a top notch brunch and I continue to strongly recommend this restaurant.

2) On Sundays in July, Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar will offer a special thre-course, Sunday Prime Rib Dinner. The 3-course meal features 12 ounces of succulent Prime Rib served with a trio of sauces; your choice of The Wedge, Fleming’s or Caesar salads; plus, one side dish and dessert. The cost is only $29.95 per person.

3) Last week, I mentioned that Sam's Bistro, a new restaurant in Reading would soon be opening and it actually had a soft opening this past weekend. So it is now open and I will stop by there soon to check it out, and will then report back.

4) With all of the hot weather recently, I have been drinking plenty of rosé. I find it very refreshing and it is very food friendly. I generally prefer an Old World style, which tends to be more dry than many New World rosés. Though I will also drink rosé year round. I highly recommend you drink some rosé this summer, and find how well it goes with both the season and food.

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