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Not all Restaurant Weeks are created the same.
ThePortsmouth & The Seacoast Restaurant Week
started yesterday and will continue through April 13
. During this week, you will be able to obtain a three course Lunch
for $16.95 or a three course Dinner
for $29.95 at approximately 49 restaurants. In addition, some of those restaurants are offering even more for this low price, from free wine to extra courses.
For example,The Portsmouth Gas Light Co.
offer a complimentary glass of wine or beer. TheGreat American Grill
offers a free glass of House Wine.Cava
offers a four course dinner while Moxy
offers a five course dinner. Tio Juan's Margaritas Mexican Restaurant
are offering their three course meals all day for only $16.95. Check the various menus
to see which other restaurants are offering special extras too. Over a dozen restaurants also offer gluten free
menu options. These includeThe River House, Blue Moon Evolution, Brazo, Cava, Common Man, Green Monkey, Martingale Wharf, Moxy, Tulsi
On Wednesday, I drove up to Portsmouth to attend a launch party for Restaurant Week at the Agave Mexican Bistro.
I arrived in Portsmouth a bit early as I enjoy walking around their downtown region, which is thriving with lots of unique shops, bakeries, ice cream spots, restaurants and more. It is a great place to spend a day and it is close enough to the Boston area that the ride is only an hour or so. With summer coming soon, it is a destination that should be on your radar, especially as its culinary scene keeps getting better all the time.
At the launch party, there was beer & wine and a couple tables loaded with Mexican food, including grilled beef, chicken and shrimp skewers, fully loaded nachos, quesadillas, and much more. My favorite was the Queso Fundido
, a traditional black lava stone filled with sizzling Chihuahua cheese and Mexican chorizo. Lots of great flavor, nice spices and cheesy goodness. If I dined here, I would have to order this dish. The other items were good as well, but the Fundido really called to me.
There was also a Bartender's Competition
, a selection of several local mixologists who competed to create the best cocktail. The judges selected Neal Jacobs
as the winner, his cocktail containing a variety of local ingredients, including: Art in the Age Rhuby, Flag Hill "Josiah Bartlett" Apple Brandy (Lee, NH), Sweet Baby Vineyard Bartlett Pear Sweet Wine (Kingston, NH), Syrup of Locally Foraged Wintergreen, Appleton Farms Maple Syrup (Ipswich, MA), Lemon Juice, and Moxy-Made Bitters. I didn't get to taste the cocktail but it sounds intriguing and creative.
There was another contest as well, sponsored by Martignetti Companies
, for all of the attendees at the party, which involved a blind tasting of four wines, trying to guess the grape. The grapes ended up being Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah. I was psyched to learn that I won the grand prize, a $200 gift certificate toMcKinnon's Market & Butcher Shop
. Blind tasting is far from easy, but it was lots of fun.
I spoke with a few local chefs and members of the Greater Portsmouth Chamber of Commerce
and one of the more interesting conversations concerned how to keep their Restaurant Week vibrant and dynamic, to avoid problems like the backlash against Boston Restaurant Week. That is probably a conversation Boston Restaurant Week should have as well, to find ways to inject new life into an event which isn't working as well as it could. It is good to see Portsmouth is paying attention, seeking ways to ensure their Restaurant Week remains an interesting and compelling event. One thing I like about the Portsmouth Restaurant Week is that many of the menus seem far more interesting and diverse than what I often see in Boston Restaurant Week menus.
After the launch party, I was invited to dine at Ristorante Massimo
, an Italian restaurant known for its authentic Italian cuisine and superior hospitality. I met Massimo Morgia
, the owner, who was born in Pontecorvo, Italy, and he was a gracious host. In 1994, Massimo became the co-owner of Anthony Alberto's Ristorante Italiano
and then in 2003, Massimo became the sole owner and changed the name to Ristorante Massimo
. Since 2005, their Executive Chef has been Jethro Loichle
This is Karen Kervick
of the Greater Portsmouth Chamber of Commerce and Massimo Morgia.
The restaurant is located in the basement area and has an intimate and homey feel to it, with lots of exposed brickwork, paintings of Italian scenes and wine racks. There is even a tiny corner table, a romantic spot, where a number of people have gotten engaged (pictured above). The waiters are elegantly dressed in tuxedos, representative of old time hospitality, and they live up to that ideal. Each server was professional, courteous andaccommodating.
Throughout dinner, I chose to drink a delicious Rosé, the 2010 Croix de Basson Côtes de Provence.
It is certified organic, a blend of Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cinsault. It was crisp and dry, with pleasant red fruit flavors, and paired well with the seafood I had for dinner.
Though Restaurant Week had not started yet, Massimo made the menu available to us and it includes a choice of 4 First Courses, 4 Entrees and 2 Desserts. You could start with a dish like theFried Zucchini Blossoms
or Pan Roasted Duck Breast
and then move on to a dish like the Grilled Sirloin Steak
or Porcini Crusted Day Boat Scallops
I began with the Pasta con Gamberetti
, Gulf shrimp sautéed with angel-hair pasta, basil chiffonade, and a parmesan, black peppercorn and lemon emulsion. The pasta was cooked perfectly and the emulsion was full of tasty flavors, complementing the tender shrimp. It makes me intrigued to try other of their pasta dishes.
For my Entree, I selected the Cioppino di Pesce
, pan seared day boat scallops, shrimp, locally caught cod and Bangs Island mussels, served Cioppino style in a fennel and saffron scented broth, with grilled house made bread and rouille. The broth was rich in taste, a savory liquid that enhanced the seafood, such as the very tender and flaky cod and large scallops. I even dipped a few pieces of bread in the broth, sopping up the delicious liquid.
Prior to dessert, I ordered some tea and they brought out a box so I could make my selection. Each choice has a small container of tea leaves which you can sniff and determine if you want it or not. I chose the Bangkok,
a green tea with lemongrass, coconut and ginger. It was a mild green tea with subtle flavors and I enjoyed it, especially the minor coconut notes.
For dessert, my choice was the Torta alla Cioccolata
, a Valrhona chocolate mousse tart served with amoretto flavored raspberries and toasted salted walnuts. It was very rich, with a creamy mousse, and chocolate lovers would certainly enjoy.
I need to check out Ristorante Massimo another time, when it is not Restaurant Week, as I want to explore their menu in more depth. I saw several dishes on their regular menu which sounded quite appealing.
So why not give Portsmouth & The Seacoast Restaurant Week
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I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
1) Tuesday nights are now “Arlington Fried Chicken Night” at Tryst Restaurantin Arlington. This off menu special is available only on Tuesdays from 5pm-10pm and is focused on takeout. Guests will get 2 pieces of fried chicken marinated in buttermilk, double dredged and double-fried to a perfect golden crisp, along with a side of house-made whipped mashed potatoes with pan gravy, fresh coleslaw and a warm from-scratch buttermilk biscuit for $20.
The best part, $3 of each order sold will go directly to various Arlington based nonprofits including the Arlington Center for the Arts, Arlington Boys and Girls Club, and the Arlington Education Foundation.
Diners can call ahead and pick up this packaged meal which is available for take-out or dine-in on Tuesday nights only. Each AFC box is $20 (feeds one person) and can be ordered by calling the restaurant at (781) 641-2227.
Fried Chicken Recipe:
One all natural chicken, approximately four pounds. (Serves: 8)
1 Tablespoon smoked paprika
½ Tablespoon garlic powder
2 Tablespoon salt
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
½ teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon dry mustard
¼ teaspoon cayenne
One day in advance:
Cut chicken into ten pieces, removing the back bone and wing tips.
Combine all of the ingredients for the dry rub and massage into the chicken parts. Refrigerate overnight.
Vegetable oil for frying
2 cups buttermilk
4 cups all-purpose flour
Preheat oil to 350˚.
Remove chicken from the refrigerator, do not rinse. Double batter in the buttermilk and flour (buttermilk, flour, buttermilk, flour).
Fry in batches, approximately 8 minutes
Drain on paper towels and season with salt and pepper.
2) Proprietor/General Manager Chris Campbell & Executive Chef/Partner Scott Hebert announced Sue Drabkin has taken the helm as Pastry Chef at Troquet. Drabkin was most recently the Executive Pastry Chef at RIS in Washington, D.C.’s West End.
Campbell said of Drabkin’s work, “Sue's mature dessert approach pairs well with our in-house wine approach: Providing uncompromising quality with sophistication & elegance.”
A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America in St. Helena, CA, Drabkin has since worked in some other New England kitchens including Rhode Island’s Stone House at Pietra Restaurant in Little Compton, & more recently at Harvest Restaurantin Cambridge, MA. During her two-year tenure at Harvest, she created seasonal menus from local produce available in Boston.
Drabkin said, “I am trained in the nuances of pastry, but what I think our guests will taste in my work is much more than technique & fresh ingredients. I have a lifelong affection for art & antiques – I design my own jewelry, too. My desserts embrace creativity & passion, & are very personal to me.”
Drabkin’s inaugural menu includes:
Pineapple Macaroon Napoleon with crème fraîche, roasted & fresh pineapple, mango sorbet, & toasted macadamia nuts
Lemon Meringue Tartlet with Amarena cherries, torched meringue, pistachio & sour cream lemon sorbet
Crème Brûlée Gâteau with orange chiffon, feuille de brick, brown sugar ice cream, blood orange sauce, & pomegranate
Valhrona Chocolate Soufflé with espresso crème anglaise, & cinnamon truffle ice cream
Lime-Ginger Parfait with gingersnap, cassis, lime gel, & lemon ginger sauce
Caramèlia Mousse Bombe with hazelnut crumble, bittersweet chocolate sorbet, & passion fruit coulis
3) Chef & Owner Anthony Caturano is helping everyone gear up for Marathon Monday by offering an array of carb-laced specials on Marathon Sunday, from 5:30pm-10pm, at Prezza in the North End. Chef Caturano will dish out a trio of handmade pasta options that will allow runners and spectators the opportunity to deliciously fuel up the night before going the distance…be it physically or mentally: Orecchiette (broccoli rabe, sausage, Taleggio cheese); Linguini (shrimp, spring garlic, fava beans, white wine); or, Bucatini all’ Amatriciana. Chef Caturano’s Marathon Sunday specials are available as individual entrees for $18 or for an unlimited portion of one for the apt price of $26.2(0) per person.
For one night only, this trio of specials will join Caturano’s staple handmade seasonal pasta offerings, available in both appetizer and entrée portions, including: Ravioli di Ouvo (ravioli stuffed with ricotta and egg yolk tossed with butter and sage - $12); Lobster Fra Diavlo (tagliatelle, roasted tomato, fennel, lobster meat - $18: appetizer; $25: entree); Pea Raviolini (Jones ham, English peas, mint, mascarpone, pecorino cheese - $15: appetizer; $30: entree); Walnut Ravioli (rabbit, fava beans, sage, butter, parmigiano cheese - $15: appetizer; $30: entree); and, Potato Gnocchi a la Bolognese (rustic meat ragout, tomato, porcini cream, pecorino cheese - $15: appetizer; $30: entree).
For reservations, please call 617-227-1577
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"In early eighteenth-century New England, the most popular alcoholic drink, in terms of volume, was locally produced cider. Throughout much of this period, cider served as a currency. It was used to pay salaries and product prices could be quoted in barrels of cider
--Drink: A Cultural History of Alcohol
by Iain Gately
A year ago, I met Michele da Silva
and Dana Masterpolo
, the passionate owners ofBantam Cider,
a new localcidery
in Cambridge. I tasted and enjoyed their first product, the Wunderkind
, and it was the Runner-Up
for my 2012 Favorite Hard Cider
. They have now released their second cider, La Grande
, and they offered to send me a sample to try. I was eager to taste this new barrel aged cider.
La Grande is a blend of local apples, including about 40% of the Reine de Pomme
, a French heirloom cider apple. The Reine de Pomme ("Queen of the Apple
") is sourced from two small orchards in the Pioneer Valley
of Massachusetts. This apple seems to have a murky origin in France, though it apparently has existed for at least one hundred years, and likely much longer. It is known to possess strong tannins and a bitter taste so it is not considered a good apple to eat though it can produce an excellent cider.
Cider making has a lengthy history in France, extending back over 1000 years. When the cider press was invented in the 13th century, cider production really took off. In France, they grow plenty of orchards of cider apples, many which are not good for eating, but which can produce excellent ciders. With a nod to these French roots, La Grande is Bantam's La Grande Dame
, their Great Lady.
La Grande uses both wild and cultivated yeasts and it is fermented dry. Though they add a little bit of honey to their Wunderkind, no honey is added to La Grande. The cider is then aged in 60 gallon used barrels for about four months. They use about 60% bourbon barrels and about 40% rum barrels, which have been sourced from a variety of places, from Kentucky to New York. It is also bottled unfined and unfiltered, with an alcohol content of 6.9%.
Their inspiration for La Grande seems to have been their desire to highlight some of the special apples they have discovered in Western Massachusetts, like the Reine de Pomme. They also wanted this cider to be honest and unadulterated, which is the reason it is dry, unfined and unfiltered.
La Grande is a very different cider from their Wunderkind, which has a light sweetness and a fuller body. La Grande has a golden amber color, though you will find it is a bit cloudy and there may be some sediment in the bottle as it is unfiltered. Don't let that prevent you from tasting this cider, and it shouldn't detract from its taste either. It is a dry cider, with a lean, crisp and clean apple flavor and a mild effervescence, lightly refreshing bubbles. On the finish is where the barrel aging seemed to shine forth the boldest, providing an interesting and subdued bourbon flavor.
This is a compelling cider, and I enjoyed it even more than the Wunderkind as I preferred its clean dryness. The added complexity on the finish is another benefit and La Grande receives my hearty recommendation. You will find La Grande sold in 22 ounce bottles for approximately $8.99 and they are now available in select stores in the Greater Boston area. Bantam Cider suggests pairing La Grande with cheese, pork or chocolate though I think it would work with other dishes as well, from roast chicken to burgers. During the summer, this is going to be an excellent cider to sip outside while you enjoy the sun.
Michele and Dana have produced a winner cider, and I look forward to drinking more La Grande in the coming months, as well as anticipating the next new cider they produce.
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Every week there seems to be a new burger joint opening, and I have lamented before that we are already deluged with burgers. I love a good burger but I would like to see different types of restaurants open as well. The infamous Shake Shake
, which almost seems to have a cult following,recently opened in Chestnut Hill and there have been long lines waiting for burgers and shakes. How long are you willing to wait for a burger? Wouldn't you rather grab a good burger elsewhere, where there is no wait? Though I will likely try Shake Shack at some point, I really don't want to wait in line for their burgers.
I have twice visited another new burger joint,Bobby's Burger Palace
at the Burlington Mall
, and didn't wait in line either time I went. Chef Bobby Flay
has created this chain of casual burger joints as a "tribute to America's regional flavors and traditions
." How does it compete with other local burgers? Is it worth checking out?
When you enter the restaurant, you order your food at the counter and then choose a seat in the dining room. There is a counter where you can sit, which looks toward the kitchen. The dining area is a bit modern in its decor but with a bit of a retro feel.
There are a number of communal tables where you can sit, and pictures on the walls of various fruits and vegetables.
You can partially watch the kitchen area from the your seat at the counter.
The menu is relatively small, but has enough variety to satisfy nearly any taste. There are ten different Burgers listed ($6.75-$7.75), with an extra Special burger each month. For any of the burgers, you can chooseAngus Beef, Ground Turkey
or Chicken Breast
. Any of their burgers can be Crunchified
for free, meaning they add potato chips atop your burger. Your burger can also be ordered Topless
, where you don't get a bun and the burger is placed atop a bed of greens. In addition to the burgers, they have two Griddled Cheese
Sandwiches ($5.50-$7.50) and two Salads
($7.50-$8.50). To accompany your burger, they have three sides: French Fries, Sweet Potato Fries
, and Beer Battered Onion Rings
, each for $3.00.
They have plenty of drink options, from Iced Tea
to Boylan Soda
, but the stand outs are the Milkshakes & Malteds
($5), which come with or without whipped cream. There are ten flavors and I tried the Vanilla Bean
. The whipped cream is homemade, and is a decadent topping for the rich, creamy and flavorful shakes. The shakes are thick, accompanied by a large straw and spoon. I enjoyed both flavors, and there were even tiny bits of coconut in that flavored shake. An excellent option.
On one trip, I enjoyed the Bobby Blue Burger
, which comes with blue cheese, bacon, lettuce, and tomato. Flay has mentioned before that one of the key elements of his burger joint is that the cheese on the burgers always gets properly melted. This sandwich might be the exception, and I don't have a problem with that. There was a good layer of melted blue cheese, as well as numerous unmelted chunks atop it. The burger was juicy and flavorful, enhanced by the bacon and tangy blue cheese. It comes on a standard sesame seed bun and that was the onlymisstepfor me. The bottom slice of bun gets soggy quickly, making it more messy to eat.
On another visit, I tried the Dallas Burger
, which normally comes spice crusted and topped by coleslaw, Monterey Jack, BBQ sauce, and pickles. I omitted the coleslaw and was impressed with the spicy goodness from his juicy burger. All of the cheese was melted well and the BBQ sauce was a nice balance of sweet and spicy. Though once again, the bottom bun got soggy too quickly.
The French Fries
are just the way I like them, crisp on the outside, and soft and fluffy inside. The fries come with their skin on and weren't too salty. There are several different sauces at the table, though my favorite for the fries was the Chipotle Ketchup
that had a spicy element to it. There are enough fries in one order for two people to share.
The Sweet Potato Fries
are also very good, with a crispy exterior, though slightly less crispy than the fries due to the nature of the sweet potato. They have a slightly sweeter taste than the regular fries, and probably are healthier for you. There is once again enough sweet potato fries in one order for two people.
Overall, I enjoyed my burgers, fries and shakes. They are reasonably priced, portions are good, and they are certainly tasty. My only complaint is that the bottom buns tend to get soggy, which I dislike though others might not care as much about it. Service is very good and it makes for a nice choice for a fast casual restaurant. Bobby's Burger Palace is worth checking out, and note that you likely won't have to wait in line as you might elsewhere.
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As I am an attorney (and despite the cliched jokes to the contrary), my ethics are very important to me. I have posted aBlogger Code Of Ethicsand written numerous posts about ethical issues. I believe that all bloggers should follow a code of ethics as the power of the "pen" can be too easily abused. For example, negative reviews can adversely affect a business so one must be very careful in how one proceeds. One must be objective and fair, honest and upfront.
Rarely do I have an ethical dilemma as I simply follow my own rules, which have served me well for many years. However, I find myself now entangled in an ethical dilemma which has the power to destroy a person's reputation. I have long been pondering over how to properly handle this matter and have asked others for their opinions as well. I have finally made a decision on a course of action and only hope that what I am doing is right.
Because of my Monday Rants, I was approached by a line cook from a popular, Boston-area restaurant. He wanted to share with me some unsavory information concerning the chef and initially I was reluctant to talk with him about this matter. I had little interest in gossip about chefs, such as who they might be sleeping with or whether they do drugs or not. His information though struck at a more important issue, a deception the chef was perpetuating upon the general public, a lie about the sourcing of some of this restaurant's ingredients.
The restaurant has a reputation for serving primarily local foods, from their produce to their meats. The line cook alleged that the restaurant actually served very little meat that was purchased locally. Most of it came from large scale, out of state farms that cost far less than locally purchased meats. It appears that the chef has a close relative who works with one of those large scale meat suppliers and thus is able to acquire his meats more covertly.
This is an explosive allegation and I certainly would not have given it any credence without clear evidence. I met with the line cook and he had a cell phone video showing an incriminating conversation between the chef and his relative. It was not the best of quality, but the voices were clear enough and seemed to support the allegation. He lacked any further evidence and didn't think he could get anything else.
I was considering dropping the matter but decided I would interview the chef, and try to throw in a few questions about rumors concerning his meat sourcing. I arranged an interview through his PR company and met with the chef later one morning at his restaurant. The interview started off well until I started asking questions about his sourcing. My initial questions were rather innocent, without mentioning any rumors, yet the chef's attitude and demeanor changed. He seemed defensive even though there was no reason to be at that time. When I finally asked about the rumors, he ended the interview, leaving quite angrily.
It seemed to me that there was validity to the line cook's allegations. It seemed clear that the chef was trying to hide something. I did some further digging, identifying the chef's relative and his company. I phoned the relative and let me just say that I obtained verification that he delivered meat to the restaurant. With that verification, I contacted the chef again, though this time directly. I indicated I might be publishing this story and wanted to hear his side.
The call was extremely unpleasant, with lots of profanity and threats from the chef. However, the chef realized that he was in a corner, though refusing to admit guilt, and begged that I would not post the story. If I posted my story, it would probably destroy his reputation though he seemed guilty of the allegations. Should I post it or not?
In the end, the chef indicated that he would be leaving the restaurant within the next week, that he would likely be getting a job in another city. I indicated to him that if he quit and move, then I would not post the story. That deadline has passed though and there is no indication that the chef intends to move on. The chef has also not returned my subsequent phone calls or emails. This post is his final chance to do the right thing, to follow through on our agreement.
If nothing changes this week, then next Monday's Rant will identify the chef and restaurant, providing the evidence I possess. I received much support on both Facebook and Twitter for outing the chef if I possessed sufficient evidence of his deception. My outing will not be without repercussion, but I am willing to take on those consequences to expose this fraud. Once I identify the chef and restaurant, the restaurant owner will have the ability to verify this matter on their own. All they will have to do will be to analyze the invoices for the local meat producers and determine there was an insufficient amount to have fed all of the restaurant's patrons.
Chef, step up and do the right thing or it will be my obligation to reveal the truth.
Every year, on April 1, I write an April Fools post, and this year is no different. I have no plans to out any chef, and have not received any info about a chef's deception concerning the source of their meat. With the advent of Social Media, it has become even more difficult to fool anyone because everyone talks about April Fools. Before SM, you could go the entire day without someone mentioning it. Now, you often can't go five minutes before someone mentions it. This post does strike at some very important issues and I appreciate all the thoughtful comments it has engendered. Though it has generated a few hateful comments as well. This is an issue that certainly could arise one day. But this time, it is only an April Fools joke.
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The Fish Head Whisperer
is the Champion!
I recently competed in the3rd AnnualiPuraTweet & Blogfest at IBSS 2013,
the2013 International Boston Seafood Show.
In this contest, local bloggers vied against each other to present the best, most comprehensive and interesting coverage of the seafood show. An impartial third party judged the contest and the top prize was a significant chunk of change, $1000. Yesterday, I learned that I have been selected as the winner and I am quite happy.
This was not the first time I have won. I was the champion of the 1st AnnualiPuraTweet & Blogfest
and in their 2nd Annual Contest, they added a prize for Best Coverage of Seafood Sustainability
(sponsored by Global G.A.P.
), which I also won. This year, there was only a single prize for Best Overall Coverage
and my efforts lead to success. Kudos to all the Fish Heads who contributed to my win.
I would also like to thank the contest judge, Fiona Robinson
, who is the Associate Publisher and Editor of SeaFood Business,
for her time and effort in judging this contest. SeaFood Business is a cool and informative magazine that covers the seafood industry and I highly recommend that everyone interested in seafood check it out. Personally, I find plenty of story ideas in each and every issue of the magazine, as well as learning more about various seafood topics.
Big thanks also go to the good people of iPura
, a food safety company, and especially Jason Simas
, who runs their blog and social media. iPura has been supportive of Boston bloggers for several years and they understand the value of social media. They have also been extremely supportive of seafood issues and have helped elevate the visibility of the International Boston Seafood Show. The local print media, the newspapers and magazines, provide very little, if any, coverage of IBSS, often little more than a single basic article. Yet local bloggers, due to the iPura contest, have provides plenty of stories about IBSS.
If you know me, you understand that I am competitive so I worked hard to win this contest. I wrote a dozen posts
about IBSS, tweeted up a storm, posted a YouTube video
and more. I would have written about IBSS even if the contest did not exist, but the contest provided an additional motivation. The Seafood Show is a compelling event, and highly recommended for anyone who loves seafood and writes about seafood topics. I previously wrote
about the reasons you should attend IBSS.
What does it take to win this contest? Based on my experiences, let me offer some suggestions and advice on how you could win the contest, which hopefully will be held again next year. First, the event is held for three days and it would be most beneficial if you attended for all three days. The more time you are there, the more information you can gather. You will be able to attend more seminars and panel discussions, be able to speak with people at more booths, and be able to taste more seafood samples. The show is huge, and you really need all that time to get an excellent sense of everything.
Second, though you receive bonuses for the number of posts and tweets you make, the true key is diversity and depth. Ten blog posts, that are all basically the same, probably won't reign supreme over five posts that show great depth and diversity. You need to write about a variety of seafood topics, and do more than present shallow, surface coverage of those topics. For example, plenty of people will write about sustainability, but your post will shine if it is more creative, original and shows a greater depth. There is no dearth of story material at IBSS so you just have to look below the surface for the most interesting stories.
Third, size does matter. As I said, you receive bonuses for the number of posts and tweets you make and that can make the difference in comparing the work of different people. You should be able to write multiple posts about IBSS, ensuring each post adds to your work, and is not just a rehash of another post. One or two posts probably won't be sufficient to touch on all of the diversity and depth available at IBSS. You will need to write numerous posts to address all of the different issues and stories you find at the seafood show. Ten blog posts, each showing diversity and depth, will trump five blog posts which do the same.
You can't win though unless you enter the contest. In 2014, the Seafood Show
will be held March 16-18, 2014, so make plans to be there and hopefully the contest will be held once again. If so, I will welcome any and all competition. Come see if you can become the new Fish Head Whisperer!
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One year ago, I published Yurine's Pot
, the first Tipsy Sensei
story and it featured an ancient Japanese legend aboutShōjō,
water spirits who love Sake
. In honor of this anniversary, it thus seemed appropriate that I should visit a Chinatown restaurant calledShōjō.
I previously reviewed this restaurant, after a lunch visit, proclaimingit A Welcome Addition To Chinatown.
Pleaseread that post for background information on the restaurant and here you can read my new thoughts after my dinner visit with Jen
The restaurant was fairly busy for a Tuesday night, even at 8pm and later. Their lunch and dinner menus are different and the current version of their Dinner Menu included 14 Soups & Small Plates
($4-$10), 2 Pasta
($15-$16), 8 Entrees
($14-$18), 4 Sides
($3-$5) and 1 Dessert
($5). It is an eclectic, fun and interesting selection of dishes, Asian inspired but usually with unique twists. Consider the Winter Salad
, made with Hijiki, Goat Cheese, Candied Walnuts & Sriracha Cider or the House Smoked Bacon Wrapped Pork Tenderloin
with Asian Gnocchi, Kung Pao Sauce & Toasted Peanuts.
I began my meal with a glass of Hakushu 12 Year Old Single Malt
, a Japanese whisky, a nice sipping spirit with intriguing fruity elements and a mild smoky backbone. They also carry the Hibiki
Japanesewhiskies. Japanese whisky intrigues me, and it is difficult to find much of it in the Boston area.
We decided to start off by splitting several Small Plates, and each one was delicious, compelling and I would recommend all. Not a dud among them. The XO Fresh Corn
($4) is made with Soy and a Housemade XO Sauce, which is a mildly spicy seafood sauce. The sauce was complex and intriguing, rich in umami, elevating a simple dish of corn.
The Tempura Housemade Pickles
($5), which come with a whole grain mustard aioli, were an addictive treat. Pink peppercorns are used in making the pickles which are mildly sweet. The tempura batter is light, clean and crunchy and cover a thin sliced, crisp and juicy slice of pickle. One of the best fried pickle dishes in the city.
The Suckling Pig Bao
($8), which has received raves from many, is worthy of the accolades. Made with a Smoked BBQ sauce and Housemade Kimchi, the pork was flavorful and had a delightful, crunchy exterior. The light smokiness of the sauce enhanced the pork.
The BBQ Pork Ribs
($8) are covered by a sweet chile glaze and topped by a frisee fennel salad. The tender and flavorful meat easily falls off the bones, and each rib was meaty. The glaze is only mildly spicy and I would love to see a spicier version of these ribs. Pure BBQ rib pleasure.
For entrees, Adam
opted for the Kimchi Fried Rice
($14) with tofu steak and a farm raised fried egg. He was very pleased with his entree, though a tofu steak would not have been my choice.Jen
decided on the Pistachio Crusted Tuna Steak
($18) with wasabi risotto, honey-soy glaze and pumpkin croutons. She also was impressed with her entree, raving about its flavors. She also remarked on the large size of the dish, having expected a smaller portion.
I opted for the Char Siu Pulled Pork Ravioli
($15), with house smoked bacon, Chinese celery, and shaved Pecorino. Each ravioli, cooked al dente, was quite large and filled with plenty of tender, tasty meat. The addition of the bacon, celery and cheese added a nice mix of flavors and textures, elevating this dish, delivering an Asian flair to an otherwise Italian style dish. Very enjoyable and also recommended.
For dessert, we ended with the Chocolate Sesame Balls
($5), which I previously reviewed
and which were equally as delicious this time.
Overall, our dinner was excellent and impressive, and each dish delivered. Service was professional, courteous and attentive. I believe you get a good value for the price andShōjō
is certainly a welcome addition to Chinatown. Dine there for lunch or dinner, and I bet you too will enjoy their intriguing cuisine.
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I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
1) On Tuesday, April 9, at 7pm, Legal Sea Foods in Park Square will host a wine dinner with Jordan Winery, a Sonoma County-based winery that specializes in producing Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Legal Sea Foods will team up Jordan Winery’s Assistant Winemaker, Maggie Kruse, to host a four-plus-course dinner featuring signature cuisine paired with choices from their vine.
The menu will be presented as follows:
Scallop Tiradito* Al Aji Limo, Micro Cilantro, Choclo
Oysters on the Half Shell, Fuji Apple Mignonette
Tempura Lobster Bites, Sweet & Sour Aioli
Jordan Chardonnay, Alexander Valley, 2010
Crab Meat Tartare in Salsa Verde (Green Apple & Ginger Vinaigrette)
Jordan Chardonnay, Alexander Valley, 2011
Mesquite Wood Grilled Tuna Steak* (Creamy Hedgehog Mushroom Risotto, Blackberry Chutney)
Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, 2008
Herb Crusted Lamb Chop* (Black Truffle Mashed Potato, Grilled Ramps)
Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, 2004
Aged Vermont Dandy, Grafton 3 Year Aged Cheddar, Maple Wood Aged Cheddar (Grilled Francese, Cherry Compote, Dark Chocolate Shavings)
Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, 2002
Cost: $95 per person (excludes tax & gratuity)
Reservations required by calling 617-530-9397
2) On Saturday, April 6, Horizons for Homeless Children will host their annual Spring Event, A Night For Tomorrow, followed by the first annual Spring Event After-Party. Starting at 9:30 p.m., guests can come enjoy a fun-filled evening with the lively Horizons’ Young Professionals Group. The evening will feature late-night drinks, dessert, dancing and views of the skyline from the beautiful State Room.
All proceeds from the After-Party (as well at the annual Spring Event) will directly benefit Horizons for Homeless Children.
COST: Tickets are $75 each
WHERE: State Room 60 State Street, 33rd Floor Boston
FOR TICKETS: www.horizonsforhomeless.org/springevent
3) For the first time ever, Tavolo will open its doors on Easter Sunday, with service from 1pm-8pm. In addition to its regular Italianate menu, Tavolo will feature a variety of a la carte brunch and dinner specials, some of which will appear on the new spring menu. Chef de Cuisine Nuno Alves loves cooking with rabbit, which his family raised and ate as he grew up with 10 siblings in Somerville. Nuno has also become something of a local expert on American lamb.
On the Tavolo menu Sunday, March 31 and beyond:
Braised Rabbit Ragu over Housemade Gnocchi
Truffled Egg or Bacala Pizza
Asparagus and Bacon Salad
Spring Pea Soup
Ligurian Whole Trout Bourride
House-Butchered Lamb Two Ways: smoked breast / roast leg
Confit Artichoke Tart in whole grain crust, inspired by Maria Speck's Ancient Grains for Modern Meals Eggs and Peppers over Polenta
Squid Ink Linguini with Cockles and Tomatoes
Rhubarb Panna Cotta
4)Portsmouth & The Seacoast Restaurant Week will be held from April 4-13, with a three course Lunch at $16.95 and a three course Dinner at $29.95. At least 49 restaurants will be participating this year. Doug Bates, the President of the Greater Portsmouth Chamber of Commerce stated: "Every year we welcome new restaurants to the program and new dining guests to the Seacoast. We thank our locally owned and operated restaurants, chefs and farms for providing incredible product at a tremendous value as part of Restaurant Week. This year we are delighted that Portsmouth's reputation as a dining destination is being recognized nationally, with our chefs earning national honors and acclaim."
Bates is referring to two local chefs, Chef Evan Mallett of Black Trumpet Bistro, a James Beard Award semi-finalist and Chef Matt Louis of Moxy, a Food & Wine Magazine People's Best New Chef 2013 Nominee. I previously raved about Moxy and awarded it my Favorite New Hampshire Restaurant of 2012.
A trend for Restaurant Week this year is an expanded offering of Gluten Free and Vegetarian menus. There are over a dozen restaurants also offering gluten free and/or vegetarian menu options. They include The River House, Blue Moon Evolution, Brazo, Cava, Common Man, Green Monkey, Martingale Wharf, Moxy, Tulsi and more. You can find Restaurant Week menus for about 70% of the participating restaurants on the website.
Interestingly, some of the restaurants offer even better deals that the usual. For example, The Portsmouth Gas Light Co., B.G.'s Boathouse and Cafe Nostimo eachoffer a complimentary glass of wine or beer. The Great American Grill offers a free glass of House Wine. Cava offers a four course dinner rather than the usual three courses.Tio Juan's Margaritas Mexican Restaurant and Grill 28are offering their three course meals all day for only $16.95. So why not give Portsmouth & The Seacoast Restaurant Week a try?
5)On Easter Sunday, March 31, Turner Fisheries is offering a special brunch from 11am-3pm. For $69 per person, ($23 for children ages 5 to 12, under 5 years no charge) guests can enjoy a chef attended carving station, both a cold a hot buffet, and a plethora of desserts. Guests can indulge in a few of Turner classics such as the Clam Chowder and the New England Seafood Harvest complete with northern shrimp cocktail, cape littlenecks and island creek oyster. There are also traditional Easter brunch classics with a “Turner twist” including Crab Cake Benedict and Carved Lamb Chops with caramelized onion rolls from the chef’s station.
For the full menu selection, click here. For reservations please call: 617-424-7425
6) On Tuesday, April 23, The Beehivepresents a tribute to the “father of jazz,” Louis Armstrong with an evening of live performance featuring some of his most iconic work. Join The Beehive as musician Eric Bloom and guests take the stage to honor one of the most legendary musicians of all time.
Widely remembered for his 1968 hit song “What a Wonderful World,” Armstrong was best known for his superb trumpet skills and iconic raspy voice. He pioneered the jazz genre-- shifting its focus from collaborative group performances to solo performances with scatting and singing, and was one of the first African American musicians to make his mark on the music scene.
From 8pm-12am, the music of the great Louis Armstrong will take over The Beehive as current jazz musician Eric Bloom plays some favorite tunes. Bloom broke into the jazz scene at the young age of 17 when he was chosen as a soloist for the All Eastern jazz band that performed at Carnegie Hall. In 2009 he began playing with highly-acclaimed singer-songwriter Diane Birch and opened for legendary musicians and fresh pop icons including James Morrison, Mat Kearny and Nick Jonas, and appeared on several national TV Shows including the Today Show, the Jimmy Kimmel Show and the David Letterman Show. In 2011 Bloom started playing with two critically-acclaimed funk bands Soulive and Lettuce, and since then he has performed with Dr. John, Pharohe Monch, Billy Martin and Talib Kweli to name a few.
No cover charge, cash bar, reservations recommended.
7) Wines will be poured and cuisine will be served on Saturday, April 20, from 12pm-5pm, at The Wine ConneXtion, located in North Andover, as they welcome guests to A Tasting for the Ages. Wine expert Aldo Rafanelli, from the famed House of Antinori will pour select wines as guests learn about the 600-year-old family dynasty, while complimentary Italian fare will be provided by North Shore favorite, Salvatore’s Andover, for all to enjoy.
With wine-making roots dating all the way back to family members in the 1385 Winemakers Guild of Florence, The House of Antinori has been in the business for over six centuries. Owning vineyards in Chianti Classico, Bolgheri, Montalcino, Montepulciano, Orvieto, and Washington State, the family has honored Italian traditions across multiple generations. Joining the family in 1987 as the sole U.S. representative, Aldo Rafanelli of Ste. Michelle’s Estate has carried the Antinori tradition overseas and will be at the Wine ConneXtion to guide guests with his passion and extensive knowledge, while providing them with rare insight into his 26 years with the company.
Walk-ins are encouraged and welcome all day! The event is Free to the public. Please note: Must be 21 or older.
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, our first President, was a lover of whiskey. His passion for whiskey was so great that by 1798, he became the country's largest distiller, making 11,000 gallons of whiskey at Mount Vernon
. During the Revolutionary War
, in the frigid winter at Valley Forge
, Washington bought Michter's rye whiskey
for his men. Michter's would later say they were “the whiskey that warmed the American Revolution
The history of Michter’s extends back to the mid-eighteenth century, when John Shenk
, a Swiss Mennonite farmer, settled in Pennsylvania
. In 1753, he constructed a small distillery to produce rye whiskey and it soon became very popular, including with Washington. Prohibition
forced Michter’s to close though it would reopen once repeal arrived. Unfortunately, Michter's faced bankruptcy in 1989 and that could have been the end of its history as its stills and whiskey stocks were sold.
However, in the 1990s, Joseph J. Magliocco
and Richard Newman
sought to bring back Michter's, to raise it again to his previous glories. One of their major changes was to relocate from Pennsylvania to Kentucky, and they had a new distillery constructed. They eventually brought on Master Distiller Willie Pratt
, who has over forty years of distilling experience, to produce Michter's whiskey. The distillery now concentrates on single-barrel rye, single-barrel bourbon, very small batch bourbon, and unblended American whiskey.
During the 1970’s and 1980’s, Michter's most popular product was their Original Sour Mash Whiskey
. When bankruptcy struck, production was stopped though it has only recently, in December 2012, been resurrected. In a process some liken to making sourdough bread, sour mash whiskey uses a portion of previously fermented mash as a starter for a new mash. Commonly, the previously fermented mash constitutes 10-20% of the new mash. This is done to make the fermentation process quicker as well as create a rounder and smoother whiskey. And it does not give it a sour taste in the least.
Michter’s Original Sour Mash also uses a proprietary mashbill made from a special selection of grains. It is aged in charred, new American white oak barrels and produced in small batches. It is bottled at 86 proof and seems priced at $45-$55. I have never previously tasted any of the Michter's products, though have heard very positive reviews from my friend and whiskey writer, Fred Minnick
. I received a media sample of their Sour Mash and brought it with me to my local poker game, to share it with several other whiskey lovers. How would it fare?
It fared quite well, with a number of people refilling their glasses on multiple occasions. Though several other whiskeys were available to them, they chose to keep drinking the Michter's Original Sour Mash. I too was impressed with this Sour Mash. Up front, there was an interesting and complex melange of flavors, including vanilla, orange peel, caramel and chocolate notes (reminiscent of a less sweet bourbon) while the finish came with more subtle spice notes, bringing to mind a pleasant rye. Smooth and easy drinking, there was no bite on the finish. I drank it neat though others drank it with ice.
This is a whiskey I would keep in my home bar, and which would impress my whiskey loving guests. It also motivates me to seek out more of Michter's products, from their bourbons to their ryes. I give the Michter's Original Sour Mash whiskey a strong recommendation.
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. The Japanese term for the pufferfish
. The above picture of a pufferfish makes it look cute though the actual fish can be lethal.
Fugu is a highly prized fish, which has been eaten by the Japanese for thousands of years. However, it also contains a deadly poison, tetrodotoxin
, which is 1250 times more toxic than cyanide and for which there is no antidote. A tiny amount, only 1-2 milligrams, is sufficient to kill someone. Each year, there is an average of 30 or so cases of fugu poisoning, leading to 6-7 deaths each year. Those who did not die consumed enough poison to get sick, but not enough to kill them. Chefs who serve fugu must be specially licensed and the rigorous training to obtain such a license takes at least two years. Most deaths from fugu consumption are due to inexperienced individuals trying to prepare fugu on their own.
Starting on April 1, a new food truck, theFugu Truck,
will be traveling the streets of Boston. Though it is named after the deadly fish, do not worry as they will not be serving actual fugu. Trying to properly slice fugu on a moving truck would have been a formidable task.
This past Sunday, I was invited to attend a special preview event, to view the truck, check out some of their potential food, and to chat with those involved. It was a fun event, with some tasty food, and I believe the Fugu Truck has much potential. The cute pufferfish on their truck is intended to be a symbol, and Chef Bing
first saw this fugu on the handle of one of his knives. As it takes much skill and training to prepare fugu, the symbol on their truck is thus meant to represent the "discipline, dedication, and sophistication
" they hope to bring to their food.
The Fugu Truck will essentially serve Asian street food, inspired by a number of different Asian countries and regions. Each day, they will stop at different Boston locations for lunch and dinner and you can check theirschedule
for where they will be on any specific day. Though much of their food will be authentic, they won't limit themselves and may create some of their own Asian-inspired dishes. The menu will change constantly, and they will likely sell about7-8 items each day. About half the items will be prepared off the truck and the other half will be prepared on the truck. They are still working on their pricing, though it will probably be something like two Pork Belly Buns for $5 and Bubble Tea for $2.50.
It is good to see that the Fugu Truck will try to be environmentally responsible
, usingbiodegradable dishes, cups and silverware, engaging inrecyclingand more.In addition, they will also incorporate charitable giving into their business plan. They want to give back to the community and seem sincere in their beliefs and actions.Chef Bing,
the culinary leader of the Fugu Truck,grew up in Harbin
, a major city in Northeast China
, where he was exposed to plenty of street food. He eventually studied engineering at the University of Michigan
yet his true passion was in cooking food. Against his parents' wishes, he journeyed to Paris where he trained at Le Cordon Bleu
. While in France, he spent time working at Taillevent
and Chocolaterie by Jean Charles Rochoux
. Upon his return to the U.S., Bing moved to New York where he worked at places such as Dovetail
. Eventually, he came to Boston
, where he learned about Japanese cuisine at Oishii
Bing wanted to move out on his own, to indulge his culinary creativity. While pondering a number of ideas, he and several college friends checked out the SOWA Open Market
were intrigued by the idea of food trucks.After more discussion and exploration of the concept, they decided to create an Asian street food truck. They succeeded in fund raising through Kickstarter
and are ready to launch their truck in less than a week.
These are some of the good people involved with the Fugu Truck, with Chef Bing at the center.
Upon arrival at the preview event, I received a cup of Iced Bubble Tea
, made from black tea, condensed milk, and tapioca balls. It was a tasty tea, wasn't sweet, and the straw is wide enough for the chewy tapioca beads to flow up the straw.Kimbap
is a Korean dish which is akin to Japanese maki
, a seaweed wrap holding rice and fillings. This particular kimbap contained BBQ beef and a few vegetables, like radish and cucumber. They also offer a vegetarian option. A nice blend of flavors and textures, it made for a good, one-bite treat.
Chef Bing stated that the most challenging dish to prepare are the Spring Rolls
, which contain bean sprouts, cabbage, and mushrooms. He stated that the preparation is time consuming, slicing all of the vegetables the proper size and shape, and then carefully wrapping them all in the skin. I was not a fan of this dish only because it contained far too many veggies for my preference. However, the spring roll skin was delicious, thin and crispy, and any veggie lover is likely to enjoy it.
A Stuffed Eggplant
dish may also not seem like something I would enjoy, but this was quite delicious. The fried eggplant slices are filled with pork, tofu and spices, and the whole thing was topped by a spicy garlic sauce. First, the sauce was a clear winner, and I would love to try that sauce on a variety of dishes. The eggplant itself was tender and the stuffing was flavorful, spiced well. It is something I would order again, which is saying much for the eggplant.
My initial plate of appetizers, and we were able to get more of anything we liked.
I wanted to dive into this tray of Pork Belly! Or grab it and run out the door. But I was good.
I got to try their Steamed
and Grilled Pork Belly Buns
, each which contained a good-sized, tender slice of pork belly, some scallions and a sweet bean spread. You also receive a side of housemade pickles, which seemed like crisp, lightly pickled cucumber pieces. The pork belly was compelling and flavorful, with plenty of silky fat to melt in your mouth. Grilling the outside of the bun added a nice layer to the dish and I would recommend it over the plain steamed bun. I had several of these pork belly buns as they were rather addictive. For vegetarians, they will make tofu buns but I can't comprehend why someone wouldn't enjoy the pork belly.
The Yakitori Ramen
was prepared with a chicken broth, edamame, bamboo shoots, a poached egg and slices of chicken, though Chef Bing indicated he is unsure whether it will end up on their truck menu. The broth had an excellent spicy kick to it, and the noodles were tasty. It was a very satisfying bowl, except that the thin, chicken slices were a bit too big, and using the plastic spoon to cut the chicken was tough though the chicken itself was tender. Using smaller pieces of chicken would have made it easier to eat. For vegetarians, they make a miso broth and will substitute oyster mushrooms for the chicken.
For dessert, there was Coconut Rice Pudding
, a vanilla creamed sticky rice pudding. This picture is before the dishes were completed, before they were topped with local clover honey, poached mango slices, and lemon peel.
It is clear that much care has been invested in their recipes and food preparation, and they are still very open to suggestions and recommendations. The staff members I spoke to seemed both positive and passionate, excited to begin this new endeavor. Kudos to Chef Bing and I wish him and his partners the best of luck with their Fugu Truck.
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The local Boston news has been highlighting the issue of direct shipping of wine. That is a very good thing. As Free The Grapes states: "Massachusetts wine lovers still cannot purchase wines directly from out-of-state wineries, even though the legislature has had three years to act on an appellate court ruling directing the legislature to correct its unconstitutional ban on wine shipments." Bills seem to languish each year, going nowhere, and new bills are currently in the House. Will anything happen this year?
The reason this issue, which previously seemed to get minimal media coverage, has been highlighted recently is because of a celebrity. Drew Bledsoe, a retired football player, was once the quarterback for the New England Patriots, prior to Tom Brady. After his retirement, one of Drew's projects was to start a winery, Doubleback, located in the Walla Walla region of Washington. Drewmade avisit to the State House to try to convince lawmakers that they should pass a bill to allow for direct shipping of wine from out of state wineries.
Despite the importance of this issue to many Massachusetts residents, it has taken a celebrity to bring it to the forefront. This is not the first time that celebrities have shown their power in the wine and alcohol world. Forget Robert Parker, it is the celebrities which possess the true power. And the celebrities are able to do so without the use of the 100 point rating system. It is often said that Millennials don't want gatekeepers and want recommendations from their friends, yet they seem willing to follow the preferences and promotions of celebrities.
Consider how many rap stars have promoted different wines, from Champagnes to Moscato, and their promotion has led to increased, sometimes significant, consumption. Sales of Moscato recently grew by over 80% in one year, due in large part due to rap star promotion. Perez Hilton and Cee Lo Green have been promoting Ty Ku Sake, helping to elevate its sales. Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt have recently released a Provence Rosé wine and the first 6000 bottles sold out in five hours. These are but a few examples and celebrity owned wines often seem to get far more attention than many other wines.
Do consumers believe that celebrities know more about wine than other people? That seems doubtful. It seems more that people want a connection to celebrities and they believe that buying wines they promote helps to form such a connection. We also have a very celebrity driven culture, where many people seem more concerned about the daily activities of celebrities rather than the problems of our world. For too many people, the question of who the Kardashians are dating seems to take precedence over climate change, the war in Afghanistan and the debt crisis. There is something very wrong with that.
Complain all you want about Robert Parker's influence. At least he has devoted much of his life to wine. I think it is the celebrities who possess the true power and more often than not, they use that power to make money, to sell their own products. And they may know very little about wine. Far more people sheepishly follow celebrities rather than follow Parker. It just seems wrong. Why follow a wine recommendation from a celebrity?
How do you feel about celebrities promoting wine? Do their recommendations get you to buy wine?
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I have dined at plenty of restaurants which sell ten to twenty wines by the glass yet may have one hundred or more wines available by the bottle. Most restaurants have far more wines available by the bottle than the glass yet does that actually make sense? Would a larger selection of wines by the glass enhance a restaurant's business?
In the latest issue of Foodservice East(Wintertide 2013, p.14), there is an article discussing a recentstudybyRestaurant Sciences.This study, involving research of about 10 million guest checks, is supposed to be the first study of wine by the glass consumption in U.S. restaurants. One of the most interesting conclusions was that, "Last year, wine by the glass sales made up nearly 72% of all wine sales on-premise." Most people buy wine by the glass rather than by the bottle, so why do wine lists often provide so few options for wines by the glass, choosing to provide a far greater diversity in wines by the bottle?
There are some logistical reasons why restaurants often limit their wine selection by the glass. Once a bottle is opened, the restaurant needs to have a way to keep the bottle fresh until it is empty. Wine preservation systems can be expensive but can provide value to the restaurant. Wines by the glass though usually provide a nice profit to restaurants, especially when you consider that it is common to make the price of a glass equal to at least the wholesale cost of the bottle, if not more.
Even if a restaurant cannot sell an entire bottle of wine by the glass, they are likely to at least break even on the cost of the wine. As the average pour is 6.18 ounces, there will be four glasses in a bottle, meaning that if all four glasses are sold, the restaurant would receive at least four times the wholesale cost of the bottle. That is a very nice profit margin. That high markup is also why many wine writers suggest purchasing wine by the bottle rather than a glass. It doesn't seem many people are listening to that advice as so many people still buy wine by the glass.
So why aren't restaurants offering more wines by the glass if that is what sells the most?
The Restaurant Sciences study derived a number of other interesting conclusions. They broke down the market share of the top ten white and red wine types, as well as providing average pricing in 6 different types of establishments, from family dining to hotel bars. They learned that price matters much less than the type of varietal or blend. The best values at most restaurants appear to be Pinot Grigio and Zinfandel.
The top ten whites include: Chardonnay 44.5%, Pinot Grigio 24.8%, Sauvignon Blanc 13.6%, Riesling 7.7%, Pinot Gris 2.3%, White Blends 1.3%, Gewurtztraminer 0.6%, Chenin Blanc 0.3%, and All Other Whites 4.9%. The top ten reds include: Cabernet Sauvignon 29.4%, Merlot 18.1%, Pinot Noir 15.8%, Zinfandel 10.9%, Malbec 9.2%, Red Blends 7.4%, Shiraz 3.2%, Sangiovese 2.3%, and All Other Reds 3.7%.
Chardonnay is clearly the most popular wine by the glass, and just four white grapes constitute over 90% of the total number of whites. Seems other white grapes need a greater promotion to acquire a larger market share. For red wines, five grapes dominate over 83% of the total, showing that patrons enjoy a bit more diversity in their reds. Yet even other red grapes could use more promotion as well. Most people seem to go with safe and common choices, rather than seek to expand their horizons.
I am certainly not the norm as I usually tend to order a bottle of wine (or more than one). If I purchase a glass of wine, I usually go for something more unique or exotic. I seek something different rather than the same old wines, like a grape I have never tasted before, or a wine from a lesser known region.
When you dine out, do you order wine by the bottle or glass? If you order wine by the glass, what type of wines do you usually order?
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I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
1) A coupleof the restaurants celebrating with Easter Sunday specials on March 31 include:
Aura at the Seaport Hotel
Easter Brunch Buffet: $55 per adult; $13 per child (ages 5-14); complimentary for children under-5
There will be an Easter Brunch Buffet ideal for the whole family, compete with a visit from the Easter Bunny, an Easter Egg Hunt and festive crafts with Samara Lamm of The Kids Place 4 Fun. Chef Robert Tobin’s culinary offerings include the following: Scrambled Eggs; Eggs Benedict (Canadian bacon, muffin, hollandaise); Ricotta Blintzes; French Toast; Pancakes (caramelized bananas, strawberry compote, Chantilly cream); Pork Sausage; Chicken-Apple Sausage; Bacon; Granola & Berry Parfait (non-fat vanilla yogurt, granola, mixed berries); Smoked Salmon; Fruit & Cheese; Breads & Pastries; Young Greens (balsamic vinaigrette); Caesar Salad (shaved parmesan cheese); New England Clam Chowder; Quiche Lorraine (ham, caramelized onions, Swiss cheese); Leek & Truffle Quiche; Ravioli (wild mushroom & goat cheese sauce); Macaroni & Cheese; Roasted Salmon (creamed leeks, caper butter); Shrimp Cocktail (cocktail sauce, lemon, tarragon aioli); Honey Glazed Ham (pommery mustard sauce); Leg of Lamb (tamarind, raita sauce); Roasted Potatoes; Potato Puree; Green Beans (tomato confit); and, Spring Vegetables (chive butter). For dessert, Pastry Chef Karen Hodsdon will dish out a variety of cakes, pies, mousses and mini pastries alongside a chocolate fountain.
Towne Stove and Spirits
Specials: a la carte pricing
Culinary Director Lydia Shire and Executive Chef Mario Capone will be dishing out a series of delectable specials this Easter Sunday. To start, there is Asparagus Soup (spring garlic flan, truffle foam - $9). For the entrée, the duo will serve up Rosemary Charred Leg of Lamb (baby artichokes, white polena, mint gremolata - $22). To finish off with dessert, there is a Lemon Layer Cake (vanilla & strawberry preserve - $10).
2) The Massachusetts Affiliate of Susan G. Komen for the Cure® proudly presents the 5th annual “Chefs for the Cure” culinary event on Thursday, April 11 at The Residences at W Boston. “Chefs for the Cure” is an innovative and inspiring tasting-style event which features the opportunity to sample gourmet cuisine from some of the finest local chefs. Featured this year will be:
· Jose Duarte, Taranta
· Joanne Chang, Myers + Chang
· Keenan Langlois, Sterling’s
· Michael Zentner, Gaslight Brasserie au Coin
· Brian Reyelt, Citizen’s Public House and Oyster Bar
· Ben Lacy, Tastings Bar and Bistro
· Justin Winters, Cinquecento
· Mitchell Maxwell, Maxwell’s 148
· Peppino (Shingara Singh), Da Vinci’s
· Nicole Coady, Fixx Chocolates
· Rich Garcia, 606 Congress
· Alberto Cabre, Casa B
· Erin Erler, Cakes by Erin
· Larry Kessel, CTCA
· Michelle DeSalvo, Johnson & Wales
· Domingo-Martin Barreras, mixologist at Market
The evening will also include a silent auction, live raffle giveaways and a VIP hour featuring a live cooking demonstration. General admission tickets are available for $125 and provide admission to the grand tasting and include valet parking. VIP tickets, which also include a private reception, cooking demonstration and tasting with chef Jose Duarte, are available for $175.
For more information or to purchase tickets, visit www.komenmass.org/chefs.
When: Thursday, April 11.
VIP Demonstration – 6:00pm
Tasting & Silent Auction – 7:00pm
3) On April 4, Neurofibromatosis Northeast (NF Northeast) will host their 25th Anniversary Celebration at Cruiseport Boston’s Black Falcon Cruise Terminal in the Seaport District. Emceed by Boston radio legend Ron Della Chiesa with appearances by NECN’s “TV Diner with Billy and Jenny” stars Billy Costa and Jenny Johnson, this silver anniversary charitable event will feature tastings from some of Boston’s best restaurants as well as a fashion show with looks provided by Ted Baker London.
To honor this quarter-century milestone, the NF Northeast organization will forego their signature Table for TEN event this year in favor of this one-time, spectacular fete that will provide support and research funds to people with neurofibromatosis (NF), a prevalent genetic disorder of the nervous system that causes tumors to form on the nerves anywhere in or on the body at any time.
Rallying for this worthy cause, family and friends of people affected by NF will hit the catwalk in fashions by Ted Baker London (201 Newbury Street, Boston). The theme of the fashion show is “travel-wear,” aptly chosen for the event’s cruise-centric locale. The models, men and women of the NF Northeast community and its Beauty Mark Nation initiative, will don temporary tattoos bearing the logo of the campaign. Guests at the event will also be invited to get (temporarily) “inked up” in order to show solidarity for NF patients and to raise awareness of an early indicator of NF, café au lait “beauty marks” on babies.
In addition to showcasing an unparalleled fashion show, guests will enjoy an open bar and savory bites from some of the city’s leading venues including: 75 Chestnut; 75 on Liberty Wharf; Anthony’s Pier 4; Artu; Brasserie Jo; Franklin Café; Legal Harborside; Lucia Ristorante; Taranta; Top of the Hub; and, Union Oyster House.
Long time NF Northeast supporter Montilio’s Baking Company will provide sweet tastes during the dessert reception which will also feature a special tribute video and live auction as hosted by “TV Diner with Billy and Jenny” duo, Billy Costa and Jenny Johnson, with items graciously donated by Seaport Hotel & World Trade Center, Himmel Hospitality Group, Boston Celtics, Strega Waterfront, Columbus Hospitality Group, Revere Hotel Boston Common and Ted Baker London, among many others.
This event is hosted on Thursday, April 4, from 6pm-10pm. At 6pm, guests will enjoy a cocktail hour and peruse silent auction items. At 7pm, the Ted Baker London fashion show will begin. At 7:15pm, the chef stations will open and guests will sample bites from famed eateries. At 8:15pm, guests will be seated for dessert accompanied by the live auction.
To reserve online ($125 per individual ticket) and for more information, please visit www.nfincne.org. For sponsorship opportunities ($2,500 - $25,000), please contact NF Northeast’s Sonja Nathan at 781.272.9936 or firstname.lastname@example.org.
Neurofibromatosis Northeast has provided research grants to scientists at leading institutions around the country. NF Northeast is proud to have been the impetus behind the creation of The Harvard Medical School Center for NF and Allied Disorders (CNfAD), a virtual center whose mission is to define the pathogenetic mechanisms that cause NF1, NF2 and related disorders. NF Northeast is the leading resource in the northeast for patients and families who live with NF, a genetic condition that causes tumors to form on nerves anywhere in or on the body. Neurofibromatosis is more common than cystic fibrosis and muscular dystrophy combined.
4) This spring Tuscan Village, the culinary playground which houses both the Tuscan Kitchen restaurant and the Italian-based artisanal marketplace Tuscan Market in Salem, NH, will be hosting its first ever Easter Celebration on March 24. Guests are invited in for Easter activities for all ages including sampling at Tuscan Market, an Easter egg hunt and a visit by the Easter Bunny himself!
The festivities kick off at 10am on Sunday morning March 24 with an official visit from the Easter Bunny himself. Peter Rabbit will be roaming Tuscan Village piazza from 10am-1pm posing for photos with customers (customers should bring their own cameras) handing out candy and hiding eggs in preparation for an 11am Easter egg hunt. Children of all ages can seek out and find beautifully colored eggs filled with candy and prizes and every child in attendance will receive free gelato cards to try the wonderful handcrafted Italian treat!
“This event speaks to what we’re trying to create here on the property. A village isn’t made up of buildings; it’s a community that comes together. We plan on hosting many more events in the future and making this a meeting place where people can spend the day,” said Joe Faro, Owner of Tuscan Kitchen and Tuscan Market
Complimentary sampling will be available all day so customers can try and discover the large selection of amazing artisanal products including: fresh meats and produce, cheeses, wine and sweets before purchasing or placing orders for their Easter dinner. Customers can also choose from a variety of custom made Easter chocolate eggs made by hand at Tuscan Market. When it’s time to eat, Tuscan Kitchen will also be open all day serving its award-winning fare including a Sunday Pranzo and dinner menu!
5) Guests are invited to celebrate Easter Sunday, March 31, from 11:30am-3pm, with the entire family at Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar. In addition to serving their regular menu, Fleming’s will offer a special three-course brunch menu for adults and children where each party will receive a $25 dining card valid for a future visit. There are also three festive specialty cocktails available: Bellapolitan (Stoli, Solerno, lime juice, Monin Blood Orange, simple syrup, orange twist - $8.95); Scottish Beauty (Glenfiddich, blueberries, raspberries, agave nectar, orange juice, lemon juice - $9.95); and, Blood Orange Mimosa (Solerno, orange juice, Monin Blood Orange, Mionetto prosecco, orange wheel - $7.95).
The culinary experience begins with a choice of three appetizers including: Lobster Bisque (sherry cream, lobster garnish); Modern Caesar (hearts of Romaine, parmesan, fried capers, crisp prosciutto chips); or, Fresh Seasonal Fruits (Moscato d’Asti, mint leaves). Up next, there is a choice of four entrées: Fleming’s Signature Eggs Benedict (choice of sliced filet or smoked salmon, served atop a toasted Wolferman’s English muffin with wilted arugula, béarnaise sauce); Baked Brioche French Toast with a Walnut Crisp (pan-style brioche French toast layered in vanilla and orange custard with a brown sugar, butter and walnut streusel, served with maple blueberry syrup, Chantilly cream, grilled sausage); Prime Rib with a Trio of Sauces (slow-cooked herb and garlic-crusted prime rib, natural au jus, creamed horseradish sauce and horseradish mustard sauce); or, Fleming’s Egg Strata (eggs, cream, vegetables and cheese, baked fluffy and served with pico de gallo, crumbled Chevre cheese and choice of spicy grilled shrimp skewers or slow-roasted filet). Each entrée is served with family-style sides, Fleming’s Smashed Potatoes O’Brien (baked potato, crumbled and fried crisp, tossed with peppers, onions, parsley and seasonings) and Ginger & Orange Baby Carrots (heirloom carrots sautéed with honey oil, citrus and garlic). The brunch adventure ends with a choice of three desserts: White Chocolate Bread Pudding (bourbon crème anglaise); Crème Brûlée (creamy Tahitian vanilla bean custard served with fresh seasonal berries); or, Walnut Turtle Pie (housemade caramel, walnuts and chocolate baked in a chocolate pie crust).
COST: $36.95 per adult; $17.95 per child (under-12)
For reservations, please call 617-292-0808
6) To commemorate the historic battles of Lexington and Concord, Legal Sea Foods in Park Square will host their next Legal Holiday in honor of Patriots’ Day. Hosted a few days early on April 10, at 6:30pm, the Legal Sea Foods team will pour and dish a trio of wines and small plates that celebrate spring.
The three-course pairing menu will be presented as follows in Park Square’s 10,000 bottle wine cellar:
Early Spring Pasta (sautéed shrimp, charred ramps, crimini mushrooms, cherry tomatoes)
Bethel Heights Pinot Gris, Oregon, 2009
Grilled East Coast Haddock (roasted beets salad, dill & orange gremolatta)
Capcanes "Mas Donis" Rosat, Montsant, 2011
Spring Berries Crepe (rosa regale brachetto d'aqui zabaglione)
Michele Chiarlo "Nivole" Moscato d'Asti, Piedmont, 2011
COST: $35 per person
Reservation required by calling 617-530-9397
7) Lucia Ristorante Owner Donato Frattaroli and Executive Chef Pino Maffeointroduce the next class in the Lucia Winchester cooking series: Artisan Pizza Making. The second installment of “Cooking Classes with Chef Pino and Donato,” this time highlighting Artisan Pizza Making. This class is the perfect opportunity to gain insight on the tips and tricks to making Lucia’s famous dough, and have the opportunity to experiment with different toppings, such as a guest favorite, Pizza del Buongustaio (white pizza with mozzarella, potatoes, pancetta, gorgonzola, and fresh rosemary).
The Artisan Pizza Making Class will be held on Wednesday, March 27, from 7pm-9pm.
Cost: $55 per person
For reservations and/or more information, please call (781) 729-0515.
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If you dine at a churrascaria
, a Brazilian grill where you can eat all you want, and you have room for dessert, then you just didn't try hard enough. When that parade of enticing meats on skewers marches by your table, you can't help but taste a bit of everything until your belly cries surrender.
Last week, I dined, as a media guest, at a new churrascaria, the Rodizio Grill,
which is now open at the South Shore Plaza
in Braintree. The Rodizio Grill is part of a chain, currently located in ten states, and it was established in 1995 by Ivan Utrera
, a native of Brazil. This is their first restaurant in Massachusetts and as it is brand new, some leeway needs to be granted to them in my review, to give them time to work out any initial kinks. Overall, I enjoyed my dinner and believe it has potential to become a popular destination.
As you enter the restaurant, the fully stocked bar is right in front of you, with a couple of televisions behind the bar.
The dining room is medium-sized, simply decorated and with a casual elegance to it. It has an appealing ambiance to it, and even when the restaurant was fairly full, the noise level was manageable.
I like the interesting pictures on the wall, lots of colors and with a cartoon-like style. They help to brighten up the restaurant.
The grilling area is fully open so you can watch them preparing the various meats, or the pineapple, as pictured above. You only have two choices for the menu, either theFull Rodizio
(dinner $34.99/lunch $22.99) or Salads Only
(dinner $22.99/lunch $12.99), and children under 12 have different, lower rates.
Both choices are all-you-can-eat options.
There is a fully stocked bar though the wine list seemed rather ordinary, and did not have any Brazilian wines, though I liked the fact they have the Taylor Fladgate 10 & 20 Year Old Ports
. You might instead want to try one of their eight specialty cachaca
cocktails, such as the famedCaipirinha
. I decided to try the Caipituba
($8.95), which is basically a caipriniha with the addition of Ubatuba Guarana
, a carbonated beverage made from the Guarana plant. The drink was effervescent, not too sweet and you could not taste the alcohol. A fine summer sipper.
Before you go to the salad bar, you are brought three different appetizers, which are also all-you-can-eat. There are Polenta fries
, a nice crunchy treat, and Pao de Queijo
, a cheese bread made with yucca flour. The bite-sized breads were best when they were warm, with a dominant cheese-flavored interior.
You also receive a plate of Banana Frita
, basically sweet fried bananas covered with sugar. Though I liked these, with a fine crunch to the exterior and a creamier, banana inside, I thought they might be more appropriate as a dessert because of all the sugar.
The Salad Bar
is a large rectangle, with tons of dishes available, from rice to black beans, from parmesan cheese to slices of bread. One long side has a myriad of salad vegetables so that you can make your own salad. The veggies looked clean and fresh.
The other lengthy side contained a number of prepared salads, such as Artichoke
salad, Roasted Edamame
salad, and Garbanzo
salad. Again, the dishes all looked fresh and appealing. If you only ordered the Salads Only option, you would have plenty of choices on the salad bar. For me, I chose to only sparingly select anything here as I wanted to save room for all of the meats to come. My dining companion though felt that the Couve
, sauteed collard greens & bacon, were amazing, some of the best she has ever had.
then began to bring their skewers of meat to our table, slicing off our choices. As the restaurrant is new, the servers were a bit inexperienced, not as polished as you might find elsewhere. They were courteous, pleasant and eager to please, but a little bit raw. I am sure that will change with time as they grow more confident and experienced in their roles. If you like your meat cooked a certain way, such as rare or well done, they will ensure they bring it to you.
On your table, you have an hourglass-like block that is colored green on one side, and red on the other. If you stand it up with the green at the top, the Gauchos will continue stopping by your table with meat. If you need a rest, just turn the red side up and they will pass you by until you turn it back to green. Once you are fully done, you turn it onto its side. This is an excellent way to control the pace of your dinner.
Overall, I was impressed with their meats, which were tender, juicy, and cooked just right. I have been to other churrascaria where the meats were overcooked and dry. Generally, the meats were also seasoned properly, without an overabundance of salt, like some other churrascaria do. Plus, there is a good variety to the meat selection, with maybe 16+ options available each night. Despite the newness of the restaurant, they are on the top of their game with their grills.
Above, is a picture of a skewer of Sobre Coxa
, marinated & seasoned chicken, which was quite good.
A skewer of Paiche
, a South American freshwater fish, one of the largest freshwater fish in the world. This fish is just starting to be seen on American menus and it has a nice white texture with a more subtle flavor. It reminded me a little of cod and was cool to see it on their menu.
They serve several types of beef, like this Fraldinha
, a tenderloin. You will also see choices such as the Picanha
, top sirloin, and the Bife Com Alho
, garlic beef. The Garlic Beef may have been my favorite of the night, and I had several slices of it. The smell alone was alluring, though the taste was superb as well, with plenty of garlic on the exterior of the beef.
The Frango Agri-Doce
, sweet and spicy chicken, definitely has a hot, spicy kick that is balanced with the sweetness. The marinade is delicious, and I loved the heat on the finish.
One of the few items not on a skewer is the Assado
, a Brazilian pot roast with potatoes and veggies. Yes, it was tasty too, with tender meat, basically falling apart.
The Linguica were juicy and flavorful.
Some of the other meats included the Lombo
, marinated pork loin;Peru Com Bacon
, turkey wrapped in bacon; and Coracao
, chicken hearts with a twist of lime. All were very good and even the chicken hearts, which sometimes can be tough, were relatively tender.
Besides the meats, there are a couple other grilled treats which you will enjoy. The Tomate Grelhado Com Parmesao
, grilled tomato with melted Parmesan cheese, was good but my favorite was the Abacaxi
, grilled glazed pineapple, The pineapple slices were still juicy and with only a mild sweetness. You might not think grilled pineapple is that good, but this is compelling and you will want to enjoy more than a single slice.
I didn't have any room for dessert though they looked appealing. The Brigadeiro Royal Banana Sundae
is a chocolate cake topped with ice cream, sliced bananas, Brigadeiro sauce, whipped cream, chocolate sprinkles and a cherry.
This is the Rabanada
, a warm cinnamon pastry with a creamy center, served with vanilla ice cream and laced with caramel sauce.
The Rodizio Grill has made a very good showing during its initial opening and has potential. The most important aspect, their grilled meats, are already impressive and the rest will hopefully shake out during the next couple months. Come here and bring your appetite as there will be plenty you want to try. Don't load up too much on the salads, saving space for all of the grilled meats, as well as the delicious grilled pineapple.
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