M3 vineyard (Martin Shaw, Michael and Matthew Hill Smith), Adelaide Hills, South Australia. Chardonnay (3 clones including Bernard 95 and Bernard 76). 13% alcohol. Screwcap. Approx $A40.
Tasting context: Sally McLellan, the unheralded Aussie, and the youngest in the field for the womens 100m hurdles final, holds her nerve and wins a surprise silver medal. Her post race interview is refreshingly honest and delightfully ebullient.
Note: An excellent chardonnay. Complex and crystalline, with a lovely balance of acid, texture and restrained power. Tasted over some hours I could find grilled peach, flint, mustard fruit, melon and peanut skins. To start and finish, this is sour edged, whilst in between it is silky and slippery, with the impression of butterscotch and cream.
Excellent.
94.
Now - 2011.
Image: Behind the wine, is a terrific and recommended cookbook by Justin North (A kiwi who owns Sydney's acclaimed Bécasse). It's part of my fortnightly stack of library books, which is usually dominated by junior fiction (bedtime reading for the kids).
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Heathcote, Victoria, Australia. Shiraz. 14.5%. Diam. Approx $A40.
Context: Usain Bolt emphatically wins the mens 100m Olympic final, setting a new world record, of 9.69 seconds. The race was the most extraordinary thing I've seen this Olympics. Whilst the rest of the field was pensive and focused before the race, he was playful and silly. Much taller (6 foot 5) than any other runner in the field, the race was over at the 50 metre mark, and amazingly he started celebrating and gesticulating well before the end, whilst still smashing the world record.
Tasting note: Heathcote Shiraz is not for the faint hearted, the wines tend to be curvaceous and dangerously full. This black wine is no exception. Scented with peppercorn, blueberry and cherry, this is caressing and disarmingly hedonistic. Creamy and lush, there is a kaleidoscope of flavour (cherry pip, cream, vanilla, dark chocolate, malt, tea leaf. . .) and a cascade of texture and terrific tannins.
Excellent.
94.
Now - 2018+
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Kumeu, Auckland (Northland), New Zealand. Chardonnay. 13%. Screwcap. Approx $A20
One third is barrel fermented in French oak, the rest undergoing its transformation in steel. The resulting wine is a bargain priced beauty. A lean Chablis like beauty, rather than a fleshy creamy one. This smells of white peach flesh, slate and river stones, for the imaginative there might even be a puff of smoke. It's tight, pure and gripping, with notable butterscotch, which is countered by citrus pith bitterness and pulsing acidity.
Very good - excellent.
91.
Now - 2011.
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Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia. Pinot noir. 13%. Diam. Approx $A50.
Clare Valley, South Australia. Riesling. 12.5%. Screwcap. Approx $A25.
From a hot, dry and truncated growing season, comes a wine that seems to lack it's customary piercing line and zest. It still smells enticing and radiant, with blossom and talc, but there is also a ripeness which reminds me most of pineapple. Whilst still citric and fresh, this is more rounded, short and textured than usual.
A fair effort from a difficult season.
Very good.
88.
Now - 2013.
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Barossa Valley, South Australia. Grenache 55%, Shiraz 25%, Mataro 20%. 14.5% alcohol. Cork. approx $A35.
Satisfying and comfortable, this feels like home. It's rounded and inviting, like a velure cushion. Much softer and richer than it's French cousins and smelling of plum, spice, dried herbs and malt. It's generously endowed with flavour and creamy texture, whilst still having persistence and line.
Excellent.
94.
Now - 2012.
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