Recommended reading
Date: Mon, Nov 10, 2008 Wine Tasting
I had the opportunity to taste a series of wines over the weekend. I tasted them without augmentation. I had only my eyes, mouth and nose to dissect and only my brain to reflect and feebly remember. I tasted a dozen or so wines, and now two days on, as I think, they are all haze, reduced to key words and number*. . . In a few more days I won't even recall what I tasted. At the very least I need to taste wine with a pen and paper in hand. It should be self evident that writing extends memory. . .
Being both text and image, blogging extends my day (like the light globe. . . it's 3:45am as I type) and my pool of ideas. Here are three excellent wine related posts that I feel compelled to share:
First something about the interrelationship between receptor and brain in Tasting is a relationship, then a nice post on calibrating and training the palate and finally a rigorous look at scoring wines and in particular a plea for critics and bloggers to show their workings and not just a final score.
* Poachers Ridge 'Toni's Block' Riesling 2003 - kerosene (83), Crittenden Estate 'Los Hermanos' Albarino 2008 - bright but short (88), Pirathon Shiraz by Kalleske 2006 - chocolate raisins (88), Penfolds 707 1998 - serious, herbal, how did I miss that in a blind tasting (92), Pierro Cabernet blend 2000 - stinky and old before it's time (86). . .
Somewhat related post 1, 2,
Faber Vineyards Reserve Shiraz 2005
Date: Sun, Nov 9, 2008 Wine Tasting
Swan Valley, Western Australia. Shiraz. 14%. Cork. Approx $A55.
I was curious about this, it's beautifully packaged (heavy bottle and topped with wax) and it's from the Swan Valley which is the closest wine producing region to my home (within 30km), and most importantly, it hails from Faber, which some regard as the best small Swan Valley vineyard.
Despite having an attractive looking cork, this was tainted. Sullen and musty to begin, this remained flat, stripped and truncated. Even through the cork taint, there is a hint of its stature and silken proportions, which makes the disappointment greater still.
In theory, I am entitled to seek a replacement bottle. In practice, it's something I rarely bother with. I prefer to move on and be non confrontational, instead seeking solace in the idea that I have ready access to other wine and the fact that more and more or of it is sealed with taint free closures.
technorati tags: wine, australian wine
Enjoyed on the same day
Date: Sat, Nov 8, 2008 Wine Tasting
Yesteray, in the morning. . . my favourite insect, the dragonfly, with its massive compound eyes, brilliant aerial skills and convoluted life cycle. . . and last night. . . the 2006 Marc Brédif Vouvray. Smelling of mustard fruit and bacon fat, this seems sweeter and slightly less complex than the 05. Still this is pleasing and something I'd happily drink each and every night.
technorati tags: wine
Bouchard Père et Fils Chambolle Musigny 2002
Date: Thu, Nov 6, 2008 Wine Tasting
Chambolle Musigny, Burgundy, France. Pinot noir. 13.5%. Cork (fully stained). Source: Cellar.
I pruned the roses a few days ago, hence the slightly clichéd photo. . . This is a very pretty wine, though there is little that is unique or remarkable. Stems, freshly turned earth and rosewood, silken to begin before building in texture, shape and power. Very clean and correct, this is perhaps a little too proper.
Very good - excellent.
93.
Now - 2018.
technorati tags: wine
Glaetzer Anaperenna 2006
Date: Thu, Nov 6, 2008 Wine Tasting
Unrestrained and seductive, this is like liquid velvet. It smells of inky dark chocolate and berries and in the mouth the concentration and swooning beauty continues. The acidity is bright and the tannins complete. This tastes so good, it must be bad for you. . .
Excellent.
94.
Now - 2013.
Related post: Glaetzer Godolphin 2005.
technorati tags: wine, australian wine
Beetroot and orange salad
Date: Thu, Nov 6, 2008 Wine Tasting
There's nothing particularly hard about this. It's a play on the age old theme of sweet and sour. First cook your beets (I used 4 medium ones, scrubbed and baked for 90 minutes in an oven @ 200C), then once cool enough to handle, remove the skin and cut into bit sized wedges. Segment two oranges and add to the beetroot. Then - add a few handfuls of walnut fragments, a scattering of fresh herbs (parsley plus or minus coriander), a splash of olive oil and salt and pepper as desired. Leave for a few minutes, so the colours can bleed and combine, then serve.
Muddy Water James Hardwick Riesling 2006
Date: Tue, Nov 4, 2008 Wine Tasting
Waipara, New Zealand. 12.5% alcohol. Screwcap.
I've tried this wine a few times now (1st, 2nd) and on each occasion I've been impressed. Weightier and more textured than the Germanic archetype, tonight it smelt of flint, toffee apple and something faintly herbal and grassy. There is notable sweetness which is married with intensity and focused acidity. It's hard not to find something pleasingly crystalline and stony about this.
technorati tags: wine
Pikes Traditionale Riesling 2008
Date: Sun, Nov 2, 2008 Wine Tasting
Clare Valley, South Australia. Riesling. 12%. Screwcap. Approx $A25.
Fresh, sharp and cutting. Smells of lime zest, white flowers, ginger and talc. Stony and crunchy in the mouth, but still with a texture which manages to feel slippery and gripping at once. With my imperfect memory, I think I prefer this (ever so slightly) to the previous vintage.
Very good.
90.
Now - 2013+
technorati tags: wine
Ratatouille?
Date: Fri, Oct 31, 2008 Wine Tasting
I started with the idea of Ratatouille, but not enough tomatoes and some left over meat ragú lead to this improvised meal. . .
How?
First the ragú. Fry a handful of chopped pancetta in oil with a pinch of cinnamon, then when the pancetta is golden add one finely chopped onion, two finely diced carrots and two cloves of crushed garlic. Stir and fry for a few minutes, before adding a large handful of mixed fresh herbs (I like sage, marjoram and parsley). Stir and then add your meat (500g of minced beef and 300g of minced pork belly) along with two tins of diced tomatoes and a few bay leaves. Stir and once the meat is starting to colour add two generous glasses of leftover red wine. Cover and cook with gentle heat for 90 minutes, before uncovering and turning up the heat, to reduce the liquid if needed.
Now the eggplant. Dice (into 1 inch cubes) two medium eggplants and salt generously (to remove the bitter brown liquid). After an hour rinse and dry before frying the eggplant (in olive oil) in batches. When just golden, remove and place in a large baking dish. Then fry three cloves of garlic and 4 large diced tomatoes in the same pan (removing the stuck on bits of eggplant at the same time) and when soft, remove and add to the eggplant. To this add four generous ladles of the ragú (approx 1 litre of sauce) and stud the mixture with fragments of bocconcini or goats cheese (optional) and then coat with fresh breadcrumbs and a handful of grated Parmesan. Bake in a preheated oven (200 degrees Celsius) for 30-40 minutes.
Wine? This is very robust and calls for something red, firm and affordable. I had several glasses of shiraz.
October 2008
Date: Fri, Oct 31, 2008 Wine Tasting
I'm not overly suspicious, but I'm pleased this is the last day of October. It's been a momentous and turbulent month, I've felt more fragile and frail than I can recall in a very long time, as I've grown accustomed to the waves of pessimism and panic that are flooding the world and it's press. I think of Keynes daily (The market can stay irrational longer than you can stay solvent and In the long run we are all dead. . .) and my desire to open wine has been slightly blunted. Thankfully my nature is inherently optimistic (are we at the bottom yet. . .) and I'm surrounded by the joys of Spring and leveling reminders of what true despair must feel like.
Image: a small sculpture commemorating Black Sunday (February 6th 1938) at Bondi.
Seppelt Chalambar Shiraz 2003
Date: Thu, Oct 30, 2008 Wine Tasting
Bendigo and Grampians, Victoria, Australia. Shiraz. 14%. Screwcap. Source: cellar, approx $A20 on release.
Thankfully I have two bottles left. These were bought at a time when my patience was greater and until tonight they have remained undisturbed and untested*.
Vibrant and deep purple, this is hedonistic and satisfying. Blue and blackberry with a note of bay leaf and malt. Succulent, raisin filled and chocolate stained. The concentration and spectrum of flavours is pleasing and notable, though importantly there is a sour, juicy edge to add emphasis and line.
Very good - excellent.
93.
Now - 2018.
* At least I thought they had been untested. . . Looking at my list of wines, I now see that I tried a bottle in January 2007, when I was on holidays. . .
technorati tags: wine, australian wine, shiraz
Laurenz V. Friendly Grüner Veltliner 2007
Date: Sun, Oct 26, 2008 Wine Tasting
Kamptal, Austria. Grüner veltliner. 12%. Screwcap. $A30
I purchased the book and wine on the same day. I think the wine will appeal to most, while the book is likely to have a far narrower audience. Charcuterie (by Michael Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn) is 300 plus pages of meat, salt and smoke. I plan to start with the bacon before moving on to the pancetta. . .
Friendly is the middle of three Grüners (Singing and Charming being the other two) made by Laurenz Five. It's very good. Light, textured and mineral, it smells of flint (sulphur) and river stones coated in honey and lemon juice. Clear and persistent with pear skin and sherbet flavours rimmed by gripping texture and flesh.
Very good.
91.
Now - 2010+
technorati tags: wine
Castagna Genesis Syrah 2002
Date: Thu, Oct 23, 2008 Wine Tasting
Beechworth, Victoria, Australia. Shiraz with a touch of Viognier. Cork. Source: cellar.
Today seemed to be the right time to flick through my dust laden copy of The General Theory. Keynes is once again fashionable as Governments slowly rush to stimulate consumption and the media is awash with talk of GD2 (the Great Depression II). Reading the chapters on The marginal efficiency of capital and Long term expectations (chapters 11 and 12) I found these prescient comments.
On the issue of risk: 'During a boom the popular estimation of the magnitude of these risks, both borrower's risk and lender's risk, is apt to become unusually and imprudently low'.
On confidence and credit: 'But whereas the weakening of either (the state of confidence of the speculator and the state of credit) is enough to cause a collapse, recovery requires the revival of both. For whilst the weakening of credit is sufficient to bring about a collapse, its strengthening, though a necessary condition of recovery, is not a sufficient condition'.
Tasting note: This is unmoved since my last encounter. Scented with peppercorn and mashed blueberry it is slippery (presumably the Viognier) and yet muscled in the mouth. Once again the pepper is notable, though in support are chiseled tannins and juicy acids. Sadly this is my last bottle, I suspect its peak will only arrive in another decade.
Very good - excellent.
93+
2012+
technorati tags: wine, australian wine
Balance
Date: Wed, Oct 22, 2008 Wine Tasting
I feel a little shaky today, a full day of consulting fueled by too much caffeine and too little sleep I think. I need something grounding, I need to sit still, and next to a peaceful sleep the thing I crave most is a wine of perfect balance. One that can free me from the labyrinth whilst still being rooted and unflappable. A wine that can walk an impossibly long curved line with poise and rhythm, a wine that can still the mind and bring silence with its beauty and shape.
Image: from Wikimedia commons
