Post card: Purple tulips

Date: Tue, Oct 7, 2008 Wine Tasting

Walking through Sydney's Botanical Gardens on a warm Spring day, I was impressed by the colour and sheen of these tulips. The scent was less pleasing, slightly sour, like a cross between dark chocolate and fish emulsion. Could it be subliminal (and thoughts of the old chocolate brand Red Tulip) or just the smell of fresh fertiliser?

Review: Bécasse

Date: Mon, Oct 6, 2008 Wine Tasting

The blurred image demonstrates much about Bécasse. First there is constant motion; in the kitchen and on the floor there is deliberate, organised and quietly frenetic energy and activity. From start to finish it is orchestrated, planned and polished. Second, at least on the night I visited, all the staff were male. . .

Located at 204 Clarence St, Sydney, this voluminous, tri level restaurant, with it's muted interior and meticulous food is well worth a visit. I had the degustation menu and though pleased with everything, there was a notable crescendo towards the desert. The deconstructed and multi layered crème brûlée was particularly superb.

The wines chosen to match the food were of high standard, and what follows are some of my brief and hastily written tasting notes:

2007 William Cole Sauvignon blanc (Casablanca Valley, Chile). Varietal, pungent and pale. Perhaps even possessing a trace of mineral. Cut bean, grass and gooseberry. Very good. 16.5

2007 Laurenz V. Singing Gruner Veltliner (Kamptal, Austria). Pear skin, honey suckle and stones. Convincing, sweet and citric. 16.5

2005 Domaine des Baumard 'Clos de Saint Yves' (Savennieres, Loire, France). Muted, though with time mustard fruit and apple. More texture than fruit in the mouth, this is slightly oily and there is a hint of salt and savouriness. Quite tight though also short. 16

2006 Paradigm Hill Pinot noir (Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia). Smoky and savoury, this is pleasing and manages to be both sour edged and creamy at once. Long. Very very good. 17

2005 Poderi Colla Nebbiolo d'Alba (Piedmont, Italy). Deeper than expected in colour, this smells of aniseed and wilted rose petals. Sour and sinewy with tooth rattling tannins. Very very good. Needs meat. 17

2003 Chateau Balac 'cuvee Prestige' (Haut Medoc, Bordeaux, France). Ripe and full, this is not dissimilar to a big boned Aussie. Pleasingly creamy while still keeping a herbal accent. 16

2007 Telmo Rodriguez MR Moscatel (Malaga, Spain). Lifted, varnish like nose with cumquat and citrus blossom. Possesses a lovely sweetness and a tangy bite. One to sip and savour. 16

technorati tags: wine

Pierro Chardonnay 2006

Date: Sun, Oct 5, 2008 Wine Tasting

Margaret River, Western Australia. Chardonnay. 13.5%. Approx $A60. Screwcap.

All a man needs is a preoccupation, preferably involving classification.

This is familiar and comforting and certainly one of the best examples you will find from Margaret River. Edged with lemon and juicy acidity this is still plump, creamy and butterscotch flavoured before a gripping nutty finish which is tinged with the prickle of fresh pineapple.

Very good - excellent.
94.
Now - 2012.

technorati tags: wine, australian wine, chardonnay

Post card: Buying wine in Sydney

Date: Sun, Oct 5, 2008 Wine Tasting

I wonder if the events of Tuesday the 30th of September will survive a life time of memories? A few days into a family holiday, I was having trouble sleeping. After waking to skim read the Hotel's complementary copy of the Sydney Morning Herald (which seems to have declined in journalistic quality), I decided to set off in the search for some coffee and wine.

It was a few minutes before 9 am (and opening) when I reached my destination. Not wanting to seem too keen (lining up, waiting for a bottle shop to open), I searched for coffee and a croissant and tried to sup slowly. It was no good, I was full of anticipation for the wines I might find (and in a rush to get back to my slumbering family), so I left the half eaten, over dry croissant for some grateful and already plump pigeons.

Once in the store, the first thing that caught my eye were some half bottles of Baby Jesus (2006 and 2003 for over $100). . . I took a deep breath and mentally said no, no, no. . . I tried not to rummage through the vintage port and I folded my arms so I could not to fondle the embossed bottles of Châteauneuf du Pape. I turned sideways so the ridiculously long and slender bottles of German riesling would not poke and prod my attention. . . Then I found myself in amongst the Burgundies, plastic card in hand, I was ready to surrender. . .

Then, at my moment of maximum weakness, I heard voices from the store radio. It was just after the news and some one on the ABC was interviewing a man, asking what to expect in Australia after the horror night on Wall Street (later in the day I found out the market had fallen 777 points as the House of Representatives had blocked the Paulson plan). I thought I heard the words "biggest crash ever". I felt a sudden and unexpected wave of restraint as I quickly shuffled away, back to my hotel, with only two (moderately) priced bottles in hand. . .

Off to the beach, back soon. . .

Date: Tue, Sep 30, 2008 Wine Tasting

School holidays and time to leave the troubles of work and the share market behind. I'm looking forward to more time with the children interspersed with plenty of food and a few bottles of wine. I'll send some postcards in a week or so. . .

Garagiste Pinot noir 2006

Date: Thu, Sep 25, 2008 Wine Tasting

Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia. Pinot noir. 13%. Screwcap. Approx $A36. Website.

Presently there is something a hard and shell like about this wine, a pippy, metallic edge which seems to dominate. Sour cherry and attractive rose petal notes submit and bow to the spicy hardness and brisk sappiness, which in time should soften.

Very good.
89+
2009 - 2012.

technorati tags: wine, australian wine

The Bandit 2008

Date: Mon, Sep 22, 2008 Wine Tasting

Western Australia. Sauvignon blanc, Pinot gris. 13%. Screwcap. Approx $A20.

Loosening of associations: A form of thought disorder, closely related to cognitive derailment, characterized by speech that shifts between topics only minimally related to one another. . .

It started innocently enough, it was a Spring day, fickle and fresh. The wind was sharp, but the sun inviting. I decided to do a few hours of weeding. . . By 3 o'clock I'd worked up an appetite, but the fridge was bare. Like all disorganised, inner city Perth souls I got in my car and drove to the formally 24 hour grocery store, Fresh Provisions. I had the vague idea of fish stew and Chardonnay, but, I saw asparagus on the shelves. Fresh, pointed and weedy. . . Asparagus and prosciutto in hand, I was starting to salivate. . . To complete the meal, I would need something green smelling to drink with my pungent spears. . . Good thing there was a bottle shop open and near. . .

Walking to the bottle shop I was thinking Semillon. A quick look at the cost of the local versions available ($45 plus for Moss Wood) and the lack of Hunter examples on offer, put an end to that line of thought. I managed to ignore the Kiwi Sauvignon blancs and settled on a bottle that seemed new and disarmingly clear.

The Bandit is indeed a new label in the Houghton (and therefore Constellation) empire. I think there are other wines on offer, I just happened upon the Sauvignon blanc, Pinot gris blend.

Tasting note: Transparent to the eye, but thrusting and green to the nose. Sassy and fresh, this smells of passionfruit, cut grass and herbs. Probably not something to contemplate deeply, but this is an interesting amalgam of wildness (Sauvignon) and phenolic texture (the gris I presume). Though simple and short, this is far from sweet, indeed there was a trace of umami and salt to offset the bright acids and fruit. Good - very good. 87. Now.

The Bandit of the label, refers to Western Australia's most famous outlaw. Joseph Bolitho Johns. Better known as Moondyne Joe. He was caught trying to steal wine from the Houghton cellars in 1869. He was unlucky because at that moment, the owner had invited some police officers back to the cellar for refreshments. . .

Depending on your point of view, the story of Moondyne Joe is one tragedy (or crime) after another. Losing his father early, he was first arrested at age 22 for stealing bread, bacon and cheese. For this minor indiscretion he was sentenced to 10 years of penal servitude. He was 27 when he was finally transported from England to Western Australia. Soon after arriving, for good behaviour he was granted a ticket of leave and then a conditional pardon. He lived in the Avon valley (Moondyne to the local Aboriginals) and managed to avoid further trouble until 1861, when at the age of 35 he took a fancy to a lost and unbranded stallion. From this point he was in and out of prison. His local notoriety growing with each of his escapes, rather than the gravity of his (always minor) misdemeanours. Was he just a harmless man, who felt he had been wronged, or just a unrepentant recidivist? At the age 74, with dementia, he was placed into an asylum, and so locked up for the very last time.

technorati tags: wine, australian wine

Asparagus, poached egg and proscuitto

Date: Sun, Sep 21, 2008 Wine Tasting

Each Spring, I look forward to this.

I can't think of many other three ingredients meals that are quicker and more satisfying.

Take a handful of trimmed asparagus spears and plunge into a large pot of boiling water. Remove after 60 seconds and arrange on a plate. Into the still boiling water crack two eggs, stir the water and leave for 2 - 3 minutes to poach. While waiting shred some proscuitto and scatter over the asparagus. Now remove the eggs and place on top of the spears. Optional extras - salt, pepper and parmesan cheese.

Wendouree Cabernet Malbec 1995

Date: Sat, Sep 20, 2008 Wine Tasting

AP Birks Wendouree. Clare, South Australia. Cork. Source: Cellar.

Despite buying very little Cabernet for several years, it still dominates my cellar. I'm not too worried, I figure as I get older and crankier, it's structure will be the perfect match for my cantankerous nature.

Though weathered and earthy, this remains refreshingly tight and knotted. Smelling very much like its younger sibling, with menthol, mint and dried herbs, this is granular and parching. It tastes like a Clare valley wine with its hardness and iron flavoured edge. It's stern and pleasingly laconic.

Very good.
91.
Now - 2015.

technorati tags: wine, australian wine

The consolations of wine and literature

Date: Thu, Sep 18, 2008 Wine Tasting

The wine I've tried before. It's better than I recall. Rounded and globular, cherry and raspberry, with a trace of stalk at the edge of the flavour. The book, The Pages by Australian author Murray Bail, is new, and direct from my local library. The sentences are short and punchy, full of meaning and imagery.

"Erica glanced at her friend's hair - reddish, open to experiment. Her own was short, determined, academic. And she noted too with some admiration the blouse which appeared to be casually chosen, of faded silk, here and there traces of embroidery, and buttons undone, where shadow offered the ample promise of softness."

Hen's teeth. . .

Date: Wed, Sep 17, 2008 Wine Tasting

My allocation of four, 2007 Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier arrived yesterday. It's a reminder that from difficult times, great beauty and joy can still struggle and eventually flourish.

From the back label: 2007 was extraordinary. A frost on the morning of November 16, 2006, left our crop decimated. One of our higher blocks escaped the devastation and yielded one tonne to the acre of beautiful, perfectly ripe fruit. Instead of our usual 24,000 bottles, this year we have just 1800. But what a wine it is. . . A great Shiraz Viognier, and only 150 dozen in the world. Open wisely.

Yering Station Reserve Chardonnay 2005

Date: Tue, Sep 16, 2008 Wine Tasting

Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia. Chardonnay. 13.5%. Screwcap. Approx $A55.

Some days seem more noteworthy than others. Today was such. Malcolm Turnbull was elected leader of the Parlimentary (Federal) Liberal party (will 50% of Australian adults warm to a politician who is a millionaire, lawyer and merchant banker?), and locally (the much ridiculed) Eric Ripper has been elevated to leader of the Opposition and the WA Labor party. Meanwhile, the credit crisis rolls on (Lehman Brothers has filed for bankruptcy) and the share market continues to decline (are we at the bottom yet. . .).

The Yering Station is also noteworthy (and more likely to please). It's tight, sour, mineral and long. Like a mouthful of lemon curd and river stones. It's very intense and succulent, but there is also a counterweight of flesh and substance.

Excellent.
94.
Now - 2012.

technorati tags: wine, australian wine

The Story Westgate Vineyard Shiraz

Date: Sat, Sep 13, 2008 Wine Tasting

Grampians, Victoria, Australia. 14%. Screwcap. Approx $A40.

Apparently only 64 cases of this were made, which is a great shame - this is a cracker of a wine.

A fault free and unremarkable start precedes a truly exceptionally middle verse and conclusion. The notable things are the length, the sour edge and the vibrant burst of flavour and spice. A black wine with a cherry pip heart and tongue tessellating tannins.

Excellent.
95.
Now - 2016.

technorati tags: wine, australian wine

Blur

Date: Fri, Sep 12, 2008 Wine Tasting

The events of some weeks seem amorphous and blurred and I find my self looking for punctuation and focus. This week, dinner with old friends was the perfect full stop, neatly placed between two frantic days of work.

There's been a lot of talk about the transformation of Dividio from casual diner to serious fine dining restaurant. The small rectangular space still seems a little awkward, but the food is superb and clearly all the recent positive press and opinion is well deserved. As pricey as any of its competition, the food is beautifully presented and adroitly prepared. I had the wood roasted corn fed duck ($A36) which was indulgently moist and crisp.

I had two interesting wines from the short, but well formed list.