Duck ham. . .
Date: Mon, Sep 1, 2008 Wine Tasting
I posted the recipe a few days ago. Despite the cadaveric appearance, this is sweet smelling and pink inside. The golden brown flecks on the surface are not colonies of bacteria, but spice fragments. . .
Serving suggestions - I've been eating this plain, but last night I topped a poached egg with a few thin slices, allowing the egg to take on some of the spice and saltiness.
Wine? A pinot dominant sparkling wine. A moderately priced local example would be the convincing 2004 Domaine Chandon Rosé Brut. (Multi region, 12.5%, Diamant cork, Approx $A35). Pale pink and scented with rose petal, raspberry and apple. Mouth-filling and creamy and then taut, savoury and dry. 90. Now - 2010.
Penfolds Koonunga Hill 'Seventy six' Shiraz Cabernet 2006
Date: Mon, Sep 1, 2008 Wine Tasting
South Australia. Shiraz, Cabernet sauvignon. 14.5%. Screwcap. Approx $A20.
I first read about this wine back in March. I looked for it momentarily, but gave up. I liked the idea that in celebration of 30 years of Koonunga Hill, a special wine and retro label was created. Not being able to find it initially, I settled on the standard release.
I fortuitously found a few bottles this week. Which coincidentally is the week that Fosters (the current owner of Penfolds) made their full year profit announcement. For 2008, their net profit fell by 88% (to $A111m), thanks largely to a decision to write down the value of their under-performing wine division by $A603m.
From what I can gather, the 'seventy six' is aimed at restaurant wine lists and boutique retailers (mine was purchased from Lamont's in Cottesloe), who presumably would not bother with the standard release of Koonunga Hill. Over 30 years, the value of Koonunga Hill has also been written down, at least in the eyes of the average consumer. Will the 'seventy six' restore the faith, or just create more confusion? There is a risk that it will merely highlight the apparent decline in quality. . .
Compared to the standard release, this is 100 basis points north in terms of weight (14.5% versus 13.5%) though it is clearly recognisable as Penfolds, and as Koonunga Hill. Smelling of malt, dried herbs (lavender and bay leaf), mulberry and well toasted oak, this is concentrated, sweet and silken. It's Balsamic like in intensity, with lovely length, polish and poise. A pleasing wine, where the hand of the maker is clear and present.
Very good - excellent.
92+
Now - 2016+
technorati tags: wine, australian wine
Salt cured duck breast
Date: Sat, Aug 30, 2008 Wine Tasting
Despite loving small goods, I've been reluctant to make my own. I guess a fear of botulism can be hard to overcome. . .
I was pleased then to come across the notion of Duck 'Prosciutto' and the simplicity of the recipe renewed by interest, while a quick re read of McGee helped overcome any lingering fears.
How?
Day 1: Make one quantum of spiced salt by (1) pounding 100g rock salt and 20g of brown sugar in mortar and pestle. (2) Add the zest and then juice of one lime. (3) Pound 2 cloves of garlic, a small knob of ginger, a small hand full of thyme and the roots of 3 fresh coriander and add to the salt/lime mixture. Then (4) grind/pound 4 Cloves, 3 star anise, 6 coriander seeds and half a cinnamon stick and add this to the salt/lime/herb mixture.
Take 4 duck breasts, and remove the skin (I rendered the fat from the skin for later use). Coat the duck breasts in salt, cover and refrigerate for 24 hours.
Day 2 - 8: Remove the duck breasts, which will now be smaller and firmer, quickly rinse and pat dry. Encase each breast in muslin and then hang outside, in a shaded but breezy spot for one week. . .
Post card: The giant Boab of Kings Park
Date: Fri, Aug 29, 2008 Wine Tasting
Warmum is a long way from Perth. It's sub tropical, red, sparse and over 3000km away. It's where this grand, 750 year old Boab lived and grew up. It's now in the relatively cold surrounds of Kings Park, after being transported at great cost (well over $A120000). Apparently it weighs 14 tonnes, and it was decided it would be easier to move it, than divert the Great Northern Highway extension around it.
It's a spectacular tree, broad, gnarled and silent. It's too cold, injured and weary from it's travels to show any signs of life, though in the bare branches there are seed pods waiting. . .
Review: Lamont's wine store - Cottesloe
Date: Thu, Aug 28, 2008 Wine Tasting
I went late at night, and my hand seemed even more unsteady than usual, so sadly no photos worth publishing. . .
12 Station St is yet another venture for Kate Lamont, this time with her partner and local wine guru John Jens. Situated in the heart of Perth's gentrified Western Suburbs (and filled with local residents), this is really a marvelous place (where else in Perth can you buy hard to get bottles of wine after 10pm). The food is of high quality and very loosely Tapas in concept (though it needs to be ordered and it takes time) and the wine selection is compact and focused, with a combination of hometown favourites (Lamonts is well represented), Australian boutiques and well regarded internationals.
Curiously for Perth, this is a hybrid space, being part wine store and part Tapas bar. I sampled 6 dishes, and all were appealing and well presented. The Italian prosciutto was creamy and indulgent, whilst the Confit duck leg was excellent.
I had a bottle of 2006 Castle Rock Pinot noir (Great Southern, Western Australia, 13.5%, screwcap). It was very convincing and not unlike a Central Otago / Oregon model. Fragrent, very creamy and textured with a frontal emphasis. 90. Now - 2010.
4 sleeps till Spring. . .
Date: Wed, Aug 27, 2008 Wine Tasting
Spring is almost here, and this Rhodanthe chlorocephala is getting ready to open. Beautiful on its own and even more striking in concert.
Off cuts. . .
Date: Mon, Aug 25, 2008 Wine Tasting
A concise Chinese-English dictionary for lovers by Xiaolu Guo is annoyingly staccato and filled with broken English. You'll need to overcome these affectations and literary gimmicks to finish this book. The protagonist, a young Chinese woman in her twenties, is an empty vessel who carries around a copy of Mao's red book and a concise Chinese - English dictionary. Sent to England by her parents, so she might learn English, the book, set out as a diary, follows her progress and documents her many and varied misunderstandings (as well as her disgust at English food). I can empathise with tales of alienation and not belonging, but even so, I found this book particularly unrewarding.
Port wine flavoured jelly is something I remember from childhood. Now I have children of my own, it is something I occasionally make and eat. Not surprisingly it smells and tastes nothing like port wine. It's actually quite floral and reminds me most of magnolia. This particular brand contains additive 151, which the Hyperactive Children's Support Group recommends be eliminated from the diet of children. . .
Kiester's An incomplete history of World War 1 is far more interesting. Written with modern eyes, this is intentionally episodic and punctuated. It's brisk, lucid, very compelling and highly recommended.
30 Days in Sydney, by Peter Carey, was first published in 2001. Though 7 years old, his description of the City's personality is in my opinion unsurpassed. It's unforced, at times tangential but always captivating.
Ridge Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet Merlot 2004
Date: Sun, Aug 24, 2008 Wine Tasting
California, USA. Cabernet sauvigonon 51%, Merlot 47%, the balance being Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. 13% alcohol. Cork. Approx $A 60.
Cabernet can be clunky and monolithic, this was pleasingly pure and refined.
A beautiful wine, with lovely proportions, balance and length. With ripe blackcurrant on the nose and in the mouth, this is soft and silken to start before a thread of creamy vanilla and then firm, muscled tannins.
Very good - excellent.
94.
Now - 2018.
technorati tags: wine
a wino sapien maths lesson (or how to render duck fat). . .
Date: Sat, Aug 23, 2008 Wine Tasting
Start with 4 duck breasts (1kg in total) and remove the skin (250grams).
Place the 250g of skin into a frying pan, and add gentle heat. Decant the rendered fat periodically. After 30 minutes or so:
250g duck skin = 175g clear duck fat (keep this) + 50g crisp connective tissue + 25g caramelised oil and crud (dispose this). . .
Deisen Barossa Shiraz Cabernet 2004
Date: Thu, Aug 21, 2008 Wine Tasting
Barossa, South Australia. Cork. 15% alcohol. Approx $A36.
August in Perth is still nominally winter. The reality this year has been beautiful sun drenched days and crisp cool nights. Spring has come early, and soon only the foolhardy will attempt to drink heroic wines such as this. . .
This is a big, black wine with a sweet core. Initially spiced and laden with blackcurrant and plums, before becoming more bay leaf scented. It's rounded, sweet and full, with lashings of ink, vanilla and dark chocolate. The tannins are minimal, but fine, and the emphasis is on cuddly (some would say flabby) softness and warmth.
Very good.
89.
Now - 2012.
technorati tags: shiraz, australian wine
Wirra Wirra Mrs Wigley Moscato 2008
Date: Thu, Aug 21, 2008 Wine Tasting
The 2007 edition of this wine was a hit (at least in my household). The 2008 seems just as playful, despite being heavier (6.8% alcohol compared to 5.5%) and drier. To taste and smell, there seems to be more Turkish delight to off set the green apple tartness. . .
technorati tags: wine
Shaw and Smith M3 Chardonnay 2007
Date: Tue, Aug 19, 2008 Wine Tasting
M3 vineyard (Martin Shaw, Michael and Matthew Hill Smith), Adelaide Hills, South Australia. Chardonnay (3 clones including Bernard 95 and Bernard 76). 13% alcohol. Screwcap. Approx $A40.
Tasting context: Sally McLellan, the unheralded Aussie, and the youngest in the field for the womens 100m hurdles final, holds her nerve and wins a surprise silver medal. Her post race interview is refreshingly honest and delightfully ebullient.
Note: An excellent chardonnay. Complex and crystalline, with a lovely balance of acid, texture and restrained power. Tasted over some hours I could find grilled peach, flint, mustard fruit, melon and peanut skins. To start and finish, this is sour edged, whilst in between it is silky and slippery, with the impression of butterscotch and cream.
Excellent.
94.
Now - 2011.
Image: Behind the wine, is a terrific and recommended cookbook by Justin North (A kiwi who owns Sydney's acclaimed Bécasse). It's part of my fortnightly stack of library books, which is usually dominated by junior fiction (bedtime reading for the kids).
technorati tags: wine, australian wine,
Vinea Marson Syrah 2006
Date: Sun, Aug 17, 2008 Wine Tasting
Heathcote, Victoria, Australia. Shiraz. 14.5%. Diam. Approx $A40.
Context: Usain Bolt emphatically wins the mens 100m Olympic final, setting a new world record, of 9.69 seconds. The race was the most extraordinary thing I've seen this Olympics. Whilst the rest of the field was pensive and focused before the race, he was playful and silly. Much taller (6 foot 5) than any other runner in the field, the race was over at the 50 metre mark, and amazingly he started celebrating and gesticulating well before the end, whilst still smashing the world record.
Tasting note: Heathcote Shiraz is not for the faint hearted, the wines tend to be curvaceous and dangerously full. This black wine is no exception. Scented with peppercorn, blueberry and cherry, this is caressing and disarmingly hedonistic. Creamy and lush, there is a kaleidoscope of flavour (cherry pip, cream, vanilla, dark chocolate, malt, tea leaf. . .) and a cascade of texture and terrific tannins.
Excellent.
94.
Now - 2018+
technorati tags: wine
Kumeu River Village Chardonnay 2006
Date: Thu, Aug 14, 2008 Wine Tasting
Kumeu, Auckland (Northland), New Zealand. Chardonnay. 13%. Screwcap. Approx $A20
One third is barrel fermented in French oak, the rest undergoing its transformation in steel. The resulting wine is a bargain priced beauty. A lean Chablis like beauty, rather than a fleshy creamy one. This smells of white peach flesh, slate and river stones, for the imaginative there might even be a puff of smoke. It's tight, pure and gripping, with notable butterscotch, which is countered by citrus pith bitterness and pulsing acidity.
Very good - excellent.
91.
Now - 2011.
technorati tags: wine